Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sorry if it has been mentioned before i couldnt find it - I even googled it and didnt get anything back..

ive just bought an R34 25GT-T and loving it. However, im not sure if i MUST use 98 octane on it or not.. i had a 300zx which will backfire/misfire (not sure which is the correct term) when using cheap unleaded.. Im not sure what i should be using.. if I must use 98 and used cheap unleaded, why would it be bad? engine problems or just blocked injectors or fuel ignites in exhaust?

thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384334-what-to-use-in-my-r34-25gt-t/
Share on other sites

I tried to use 95RON unleaded. Generally, no adverse effects should be expected with RB25 NEO on 95RON mechanically. But what I can tell you from personal experience - I did notice a severe power drop, the car felt like 60hp or so hp down on power, lost response and felt lethargic and unpleasant to drive. Worth mentioning also is the fact that fuel consumption went through the roof, something like 20-22litre per 100km of city driving could be observed on 95RON.

The Neo ecu is pretty adaptable. When I'm in has I run 95, it always feels a little slower and I keep the boost down just in case

But seriously, if its pretty close to stock then its not gonna explode running 95, it will just run better on 98

The Neo ecu is pretty adaptable. When I'm in has I run 95, it always feels a little slower and I keep the boost down just in case

But seriously, if its pretty close to stock then its not gonna explode running 95, it will just run better on 98

thanks for the heads up fellas

cheers!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey crew, Failed my WOF cause of a lower control arm, and I've decided to hit both arms, and also the compression rods at the same time(seems they're gonna be the most likely upcoming failure points from some discussions with the lads over on the G35 reddit). I've looking at these form Z1:  https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-compression-rod-p-40716.html https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-lower-control-arm-p-40674.html I asked Z1 if they'd work as it's the same platform, just RHD vs LHD. I basically got told "Lol dunno". Specifically they aren't aware of any difference but can't guarantee fitment as they haven't done it on a 350GT. So guess I'm asking is if there is any issues with using 2005 G35 coupe suspension parts on a 2005 350GT coupe? Orginally I thought it could be something in the way of the arms that each control arm is designed to be positioned around, but that'd be an engineering nightmare for Nissan needing two different shaped control arms 😅
    • ^ This. The mode door actuator is a common failure, as is the actuator and/or the actual valve for the coolant flow control valve. I also don't know how available the mode door actuator is these days. I've been meaning to look into it and get one from wherever is possible, to keep in the shed for the rainy day when mine eventually fails. Anyway, the advice to you is to search the usual NOS part supply places, or even just go to Nissan and see what they list.
    • Have you got a pic of the actuator? My guess is that unit has failed internally and was flopping around, so the previous engineer who owned it forced it to be fully open to cold air (blocking the heater core path). As far as you can tell, is anything else wrong in the system? Likely you just need a new actuator (not sure how available they are) and then "installation is the reverse of disassembly"
    • I'm happy with the Lsailt unit that I put in, it puts full Android on the top screen so you can run whatever Nav and other Apps you want, while still existing inside the factory functionality like automatic reverse cams, audio input switching, retains factory bluetooth etc. Not cheap and the install was moderate (not simple, not hard) Yours is a V36 not V37 though right?
    • Yeap, all the NC's that I originally looked at that had a hard top were PRHT, which makes the roof line look horrible, hence why I said nope to them My only caveat for another MX5 was it needed to have a hard top, and initially I didn't think you could get a detachable hard top for the NC,  like my NB had Again, a big thanks to Matty for helping me source the detachable hard top for my little girl, they are as rare as hens teeth in Australia, and the few people who have them, keep them Also to Greg, for initially pointing me in the NC direction NC PRHT 🤢🤮 Not mine (I really should take more photos of my car), but a NC with the detachable hard top 😁 To me, the difference in how the detachable hard top roof line looks, and how it actually follows the bodies lines, like they do on NA's and NB's, is chalk and cheese compared to the bulbous looking PRHT  
×
×
  • Create New...