Rb26Dett With Mods Not Making Power :-/

[DVS JEZ]

Haha spell my name right and ill do a better job

[livewire]

Oops I meant DVS JEZ. There we go... I expect at least 300kw now lol (after compression test of course because that's kinda out of your hands haha)

[XKLABA]

I have 12 degress on intake and 10 on exh, and with stock cams and stock turbos the R32 makes 292rwkw @ 19 psi, the 34 has 10 degress intake and 4 exh with poncams and -7s made 310rwkw, so 8 in and 4 exh i doubt thats going to cause the problem.

I'd be looking at the intake pipes for a leak or crack, check all hose clamps are on right and tight, check the BOVs bolts are done up tight, even go around the plenum with a can of brake clean with engine running and see if idle changes at all to see if a gasket has given way or a small hose hasn't come off.

6/7 kw is a sizable loss but not what your looking at as the problem but something I'd be looking at improving

Take out air filter and stick a screw driver handle in the airbox to hold it open and see if that helps

them mayby look at different dump pipes as x-force are an upgrade to only the stock 32/33 stuff but only just and are not the best, I picked up 20kw (290 awkw to 310rwkw) from changing from HKS dump pipe to the CES Comp Series dumps and front pipes, I hate knocking stuff so this is really only a suggestion

[livewire]

Thanks for the post. I didn't know you could run that much boost with stock R32 turbos. I'd say DVS JEZ will go through those things providing the compression test comes back ok to start with. Also... could leaking piping be the issue if its still making 17 p.s.i which I'm guessing is read at the inlet manifold? Which is after all the piping, cooler etc?

And as far as I know the xforce dump pipes are an exact copy of the hks ones (split type) that surely should be sufficient enough for 300+kw?

[GTR_JOEY]

from what ive read and from before/after dyno graphs i dont think that the dumps would be the issue

they would be 100% fine for 300kw and lots more

XKLABA i dare say that ur 20kw gain would have mostly been from ur front pipe change, there are large gains had from changing to bigger diameter front pipes

[XKLABA]

you can run that boost for short spurts, dyno and drags but not burnouts or track events and have done so for 8 years now with two sets of turbos, first set had to be changed cause the bearing where gone with 4mm + shaft play and no damage to either wheels.

yeah comp test is a good start but if it isn't given a slight wiff of blue smoke from exhaust then i'd say comp would be good, a small but consistent leak would be over come with the boost controller making the boost level, also check there isn.t a leak around the exhaust manifold before the turbos, even a small leak will rob power.

Joe, the design of the dump pipe can make a big difference ( bigger then front pipes ) in both responce and power and if you get to see the CES comp series pipes in real life you can see way they work so well, I've tried a few styles on both the 32 and 34 and i have CES on both now, the normal ones on the 32 with equal lenght front pipe and the longer comp ones on the 34

[XKLABA]

also just cause something can handle a certain power that doesn't always mean it will help you make it, as John from UAS says "good is the enemy of better"

[GTR_JOEY]

I remember reading a thread in this forum where some had a mildly modded gtr (around 300rwkw)

they performed a before and after test using stock dumps and then some after market larger dumps

the difference ended up being 3 fifths of f#ck all

not sayin ur wrong but at these sorta power figures i dont think the dumps make that much difference,

not doubting that CES arent a better dump either, i just dont think the dumps are his power problem

ill see if i can find the thread

[livewire]

I can't see it being the dumps either. R34 dumps are apparently good for 300+ and these are no worse than them, if not better.

[MrStabby]

As data point, I'm running xforce split dumps with -7s on 17psi and making 305kw. Factory air box. Another reason not to focus on the dumps at this stage is that changing them is a big job, so you only want to consider it if you have very strong indications that they are the problem. So, IMO, forget the dumps for the moment.

What are your front pipe dimensions? FWIW the primaries on mine are 56mm ID and the secondary is 76mm.

Other than front pipe, I'd be looking at your inlet side for leaks or restrictions.

[R31Nismoid]

Dumps are not a problem.

Made 340rwkw through stock R33 ones, no issues.

[SiR_RB]

What spark plugs are you running and what gap? I had an issue with mine when I first got it Dyno tuned, ended up having something like 0.6mm spark gap

Had spark blow out and wen we turned the boost up more it didn't gain any extra power

To be safe I changed my coilpacks and coilpack wiring loom too

[DVS JEZ]

Im running xforce dumps too. We will work it out. I'll bring my car so if we have to change coolers etc just to test we can

[livewire]

MrStabby - front pipe is exactly the same dimensions as yours.

SiR RB - I'm not sure what the gap is as I left that all to the tuner but I know the plugs are just the ngk cheaper ones

I have faith in DVS JEZ to get to the bottom of this Jon

[livewire]

Step one complete.... Compression test was done today and came back all good. Phew!

[iplen]

Checked the front of the exhaust cam for wear? how is the ignition timing be set? don't use the loop at the back of the motor, get a plug lead and shove it up coil #1, then run the light off that, with the TPS unplugged.

Edited December 6, 2011 by iplen

[livewire]

That made absolutely no sense to me lol. I'd say it would have to someone with a bit more mechanical ability though

[SiR_RB]

Out of curiosity what were the compression results?

[rob82]

That cam timing is not right for STD cams. Good for bottom end power but it will kill top end. Try inlet at 4ad, exh at 2ret.

[XKLABA]

Checked the front of the exhaust cam for wear? how is the ignition timing be set? don't use the loop at the back of the motor, get a plug lead and shove it up coil #1, then run the light off that, with the TPS unplugged.

This means get a timing light, remove No 1 coil get a old school lead for twim cam cut it in half stick one end on the spark plug and the other end in the coil and read the timing light off the lead, we on the other hand just open the timing light reader and hold it against the front of the coil with it still in place, to check if you base timing is correct.

+ 1 on comp results

as for the dump pipes, it was a suggestion for something to check as a possibility, coming from things i have exprienced in the near 10 years i have been playing with these cars and was something I reseached heaps in the path of getting the 32 as fast as it is.

The front pipes on 34 where the HKS ones with a 76mm in and 80mm out equal length, I don't think there was 20kw from changing them.

Just trying to help