Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Joe you'll see now the kit is finished, heaps of GTR's will be getting them there. I know of one Melbourne workshop getting to play with one soon too - so it's not just Sydney siders who are lucky with this bit of gear.

From 290 to 400? Yeah, hold-the-fu(k-on, thats a big jump :D

Sorta disappointing in a way lol wouldn't have minded being one of only a few that had this kit

I spose it is like anything though.

This kit has been in the pipeline for a while now. I am not sure how long, but Yavuz mentioned it when I jumped across to E85 in Nov last year. It has been something like 3 years of Testing and tuning.

Sorta disappointing in a way lol wouldn't have minded being one of only a few that had this kit

Well if it's any comfort, not everyone will be able to afford it. There's always the "close enough is good enough" crowd.

Any reason still 2.6L and not going stroker?

I spose it is like anything though.

This kit has been in the pipeline for a while now. I am not sure how long, but Yavuz mentioned it when I jumped across to E85 in Nov last year. It has been something like 3 years of Testing and tuning.

The day I swapped to E85 it was the same time he said the design is starting. So yeah, quite a while!! Thats why I used the Autronic one because this kit was so far off.....as you know thats another story now...

Just to back this up - I put on the Ross Trigger kit a few weeks back also. Although mine it a 12 tooth setup - I am running Motec and logged exactly the same kind of improvement. Used to get up to 500rpm jitter above 5500rpm.. now its lucky if it jitters more than 30rpm.

We also noticed immediately a better/smoother idle. And that was the only change made.

For the CAS, we just replaced the trigger wheel for one that has 1 sync slot.

Obviously doing crank triggers is nothing new, but its nice to have an off the shelf kit made rather than having to fab something up yourself.

Yea I first heard about it about a year ago as well, but ur right I don't think many people will be spending the extra cash on some thing that isn't really necessary. Especially since its a modification for more "highly tuned" cars...

I ended up buyin an engine that had already been built and I was happy with the 2.6 at that point in time ( it was a good price as well)

Though when I do eventually kill the engine "will not if" I'll be using a 2.8 minimum

Seems to be the common trend at the moment

I can completely understand when "Gav" (a WA forum member with a very similar setup) said "I have a choice of 2 gear's in any corner on the track".

...depending on which corner he is talking about.. he could mean 1st and reverse... eh Gav. ;)

(and yes, I do hope he reads this..)

Any details?

90mm Sleeved block + 3.4 crank would be interesting

somebody with more money than me should do it...

Steve you know 3.0 isnt enough right :whistling:

Na couldn't get any more info on it.. Apparently it's got a fair bit more displacement then the 34 though

Not sure how much larger u could get it lol

Edited by GTR_JOEY

Yea I first heard about it about a year ago as well, but ur right I don't think many people will be spending the extra cash on some thing that isn't really necessary. Especially since its a modification for more "highly tuned" cars...

I ended up buyin an engine that had already been built and I was happy with the 2.6 at that point in time ( it was a good price as well)

Though when I do eventually kill the engine "will not if" I'll be using a 2.8 minimum

Seems to be the common trend at the moment

That's the thing. Isn't "really necessary". Timing, combined with fuel is prob the most important things on a highly tuned car. If there is no consistancy in either of those, you really are risking that big buck bottom end.

bonus that it's a one off purchase that wont need replacement

so worst comes to worst and u wreck an engine you can just throw it on the new engine and away u go

300rwkw plus is where the the CAS problems tend to start... And there's alot more 300kw+ cars starting to get around

...depending on which corner he is talking about.. he could mean 1st and reverse... eh Gav. ;)

(and yes, I do hope he reads this..)

Yer, yer, yer.......anyway to the OP - if you get to a stage where the coilpacks or sparkplugs are givving hiccups on E85 I can't say enough good things about the Billet Performance CDI kit. This really lets you get the best out of the E85 with regards to aggressive fueling and timing in the mid range.

Yer, yer, yer.......anyway to the OP - if you get to a stage where the coilpacks or sparkplugs are givving hiccups on E85 I can't say enough good things about the Billet Performance CDI kit. This really lets you get the best out of the E85 with regards to aggressive fueling and timing in the mid range.

PM me with details?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...