Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok as part of the ARC Forum Battle - SAU is looking for represenatives to take out the DRAG section.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/381974-arc-car-forum-battle-sau-represent-2012/

RESTRICTIONS:

Car must run DOT approved Radials

SUPP REGS (partial):

http://forumbattle.com.au/drag/

http://forumbattle.com.au/regulations/

ENTRY LIMIT:

4 cars from SAU.

The regs IMO cannot be complete as there is a lot still missing. So at present I'm assuming at this stage it means DOT approved radials, given you could legally use them on the street.

COSTS:

SAU will cover 50% of the entry fee - so $75 only

I'm sure there are some that could run a solid 9.XX pass on DOT approved radials and bring home the trophy for SAU :wub:

Who out there fits the bill? Do you know someone that is a SAU User, but doesn't browse SAU every day?

Post up users, cars whatever - need to know and start organising like... Yesterday!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385146-who-on-sau-is-the-fastest/
Share on other sites

Normal rules will apply as per the Regs.

So I'm assuming yes at this point. But I'm also assuming we will get 2 reps that will be in the 9s... So its very much going to apply and these guys will already comply so it won't be a major problem.

Well it says Rego – Not which state.

That’s what sucks about having regs that basically say “free for all”. VIC has ridiculous rules where NSW/QLD do not and can get away with a lot more.

Was chatting to a mate just then, I can see a lot of protests being lodged with the only major regulation being “owner driver & street rego”…

That are going to be out and out race-cars coming along quite easily, as it is clearly within the rules.

At the end of the day all that matters is the rules, meet them and that's all you need to do.

No more, no less.

So - Who meets the rules and runs 9s? :)

That's was what I was going to say. Street legal and a race car with plates are very different.

There are always protests when it come to street car super star events etc which is unfortunate as I love street legal drag cars that are stupid quick.

I do know of a Torana that runs low 8s that will prob turn up and is 100% legal and registered from sydney No idea what forum it will represent though

Well it says Rego – Not which state.

That’s what sucks about having regs that basically say “free for all”. VIC has ridiculous rules where NSW/QLD do not and can get away with a lot more.

Was chatting to a mate just then, I can see a lot of protests being lodged with the only major regulation being “owner driver & street rego”…

That are going to be out and out race-cars coming along quite easily, as it is clearly within the rules.

At the end of the day all that matters is the rules, meet them and that's all you need to do.

No more, no less.

So - Who meets the rules and runs 9s? :)

What about Jangles who now has TWOOGLE...? Or one of the auto boys.

Maybe Julian (KIL_351) he has a pretty wild 32GTR with 1000+hp

Superjet760...?

im not caged or teched but im happy to go out on radials with my gtr... still a stock 5 spd at the moment but the T400 shouldnt be too far away... (been saying this since may but apparently everything is ready to go)

mine makes around 1050 at the wheels at the moment but if i race it ill prob throw another 5 pounds in it.

if not, im ready to hire out WSID for a private day and do some testing if anyone is keen shoot me a message.

Problem would be Calder Park rules which you would run under.

Cars running quicker than 10.99 seconds, as aforementioned details above and the following:


    * Minimum 4 point roll cage,
    * Minimum 4 point Safety Harness,
    * Longer wheels studs protruding beyond the face of the rim by 1 diameter of the wheel stud.
    * Open Headers permitted, but are not to point down toward the track
    * NOS permitted, however, if fitted inside the vehicle, the bottle must be fitted with a vent tube from the appropriate OEM or equivalent of the bottle.
    * Engine Oil Filter Clamp required on spin off type filters. NOTE: System 1 and Oberg type filter designs are exempt.
    * Drive Shaft Loop

Cars running quicker than 9.99 seconds, as aforementioned details above and the following:


    * Minimum 6 point roll cage,
    * Minimum 5 point Safety Harness,
    * Personal Safety Equipment per requirements of the current ANDRA Rule Book required. This includes gloves, fire proof suit, SFI approved Helmet, Neck Brace, etc.
    * Vehicles running faster than 140 mph require a parachute.
    * Those who wish to enter competition class must have a roll cage or else they must race as a street car.

And Calder are SUPER anal about it too. There is a guy @ the end of the strip. Looks @ the times.

You run faster than the time vs gear - you get sent home (street meets). So given that you might not even get ONTO the track @ such an event like this

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...