Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtt Custom Air Box

R34mac

By R34mac,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

Posted
Posted

and pods are so cool arnt they.... hiflow panel filter in the stock airbox vs pod filter in a stock like airbox... where's the difference?

its all for looks or induction sound isnt it... no real performance upgrade.

I love how people say ' I put a pod on and gained 4kw' its because your stock air filter was old and dirty.

the upgrade was buying a clean one.

I use and ARC airbox, but I admit it was for looks, not for performance gains, but I have a bonnet vent that directly feeds it too....

R34mac Enthusiast

R34mac

Posted
  • Author
Posted

and pods are so cool arnt they.... hiflow panel filter in the stock airbox vs pod filter in a stock like airbox... where's the difference?

its all for looks or induction sound isnt it... no real performance upgrade.

I love how people say ' I put a pod on and gained 4kw' its because your stock air filter was old and dirty.

the upgrade was buying a clean one.

I use and ARC airbox, but I admit it was for looks, not for performance gains, but I have a bonnet vent that directly feeds it too....

Yep completely agree.. which is why I never mentioned power gains as my reason for doing this.. I simply want the induction noise without the draw backs of having an unshielded pod.. :)

Fry_33 Proficient

Fry_33

Posted
Posted

I am playing around with a pod in box idea myself.. I'm trying to use the standard box though.. I know you say that there is stuff all difference between a Pod and Panel filter.. however have you looked at the difference between the surface areas of the 2? I have a pod here, just 120mm diam x ~140mm long.. if you roll this across the panel filter it is about 1.5 times the length for a similar width. I'm all for trying to make things breath as easily as possible. It is also something to try. I'm not sure if the pipe bends I'm thinking of using to get the pod to fit will negate the slightly improved flow?

What are the actual dimensions of the Apexi pod? I couldn't seem to find any dimensions which included top diam, bottom diam and length.

If you're making up your own box like this, I see no point why you can't try and shield of the remainder of the corner with some sheets at either end of the box.. then open up some holes below and on that shielded side. Since it's a pod you don't need to worry about opening up the base :) the snorkel can be a restriction one the flow levels get up there.

Good Luck with it!

R34mac Enthusiast

R34mac

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I am playing around with a pod in box idea myself.. I'm trying to use the standard box though.. I know you say that there is stuff all difference between a Pod and Panel filter.. however have you looked at the difference between the surface areas of the 2? I have a pod here, just 120mm diam x ~140mm long.. if you roll this across the panel filter it is about 1.5 times the length for a similar width. I'm all for trying to make things breath as easily as possible. It is also something to try. I'm not sure if the pipe bends I'm thinking of using to get the pod to fit will negate the slightly improved flow?

What are the actual dimensions of the Apexi pod? I couldn't seem to find any dimensions which included top diam, bottom diam and length.

If you're making up your own box like this, I see no point why you can't try and shield of the remainder of the corner with some sheets at either end of the box.. then open up some holes below and on that shielded side. Since it's a pod you don't need to worry about opening up the base :) the snorkel can be a restriction one the flow levels get up there.

Good Luck with it!

I don't know how different the R33 is but there aren't really any places below the airbox where I could put in an air feed.. unless I started cutting holes through the side into the area behind the guard but I am not too keen on that!

An Apexi pod is 117mm high. Diameters are:

Base: 132mm

Top: 120mm

Widest point (which is 20mm above the base): 160mm

Edited by R34mac
Fry_33 Proficient

Fry_33

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the Apexi dimensions.. bit too large for what I'm looking at.

No the R33 doesn't have much room either.. I have a return flow intercooler though using standard piping. If I had one that was crossflow and went over the radiator/drivers cam cover then that gives you more room to play with. The ones that go over the drivers cam cover would be good as it leaves lots of room for a snorkel. I don't want to cut any holes either though so the crossflow I/C is not something I want.

In terms of cutting a hole in the lower section it is just an idea to remove some of the restriction to the flow to the pod.. I'm fairly sure that Tao had issues getting enough air into the airbox once boost/airflow levels started to get up quite high for the Hypergear turbos. I think a lot of it has to do with the fact you're trying to suck the surface area of the pod/filter etc though a much smaller snokel/airbox lid inlet. If you open up the box you/re removing a bit of that. If you seal the area around the airbox then the flow past the headlight can feed it. If you have a crossflow intercooler then you already have a feed hole right below it :) I'm thinking out loud here a bit (Well typing as hard as I can) so I may not be taking some things into consideration. My main point is I guess that the pod removes the full need for the box alone to be sealed.. you can increase the area.

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

You know what you can do? Keep your factory box mounted in the stock location and use a 90 degree bend going through the old intercooler pipe and have the filter fitted under the car in the wheel arch. Measure it up, cut up as need and bam from the top looks stock, but your pod is in your wheel arch. Gravity won't allow water to get sucked up into the turbo either but that isn't to say your pod won't get wet but again you can shield it from splash from your wheel.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

I retained my stock (R32) airbox, opened up the roughly triangular shaped hole in the front lower corner, grabbed a 100mm 90° PVC stormwater pipe bend and heated it so I could shape one side and fit it into/onto the triangular opening. Flared it out, pinned it in place with pop rivets and sealed it with silicone. Then banged a 100mm hole in the inner guard straight down to the section where the SMIC used to be. Staight bit of 100mm pipe in the elbow, followed by 90° elbow facing to the brake cooling duct in the (GTR) front bar. Flared the front end of the elbow to make a bellmouth. Between that bit of plumbing (literally!) and the metal turbo inlet pipe, I get all the induction noise you could want, all the filtering you could want, all the cold air you could want, all the ram air pressure boost you could want (if you care) and all the flow restriction reduction you could want.

  • 3 months later...
RSFOURDayz Experienced

RSFOURDayz

Posted
Posted

Sorry to dig up an old post but have looking at shitloads of big horsepower skylines and other imports in fast fours and other mags and one thing I have noticed is that all the cars have a pod in the engine bay and no cold air feed going to them. I've always gone with the thought that cold air is good but that may just be on NA cars perhaps?

Godzilla34 Community Regular

Godzilla34

Posted
Posted

Well I've heard that with a bigger intercooler and just a pod there's not much difference with having a pod or cai. But everyone always says if you can have cold air induction obviously that's better. I always think cold air going into a turbo is better than hot air but I don't know how much difference it would actually make

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

You have to ask the question though, how many of such cars are driven in traffic? And also, how much extra power would have been available if they'd used a cold air induction system and been able to add in a little extra timing here and there? Admittedly, once you have 500+kW, an extra 5% is not exactly going to be noticable unless you're in a tight racing class.

  • 7 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...