Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Depending on which Head Gasket you end up putting back onto it and whether or not the engine got hot which would cause the head to warp id say best case with cheap metal gasket around 1000-1200, worst case with say HKS Drag metal H/G under 2500, so long as head is re-usable (machinable)

Other possible costs maybe s/plugs,oil,oil filter. If its close to cam belt change time its a good time to that aswell.

Ask the machinists for a vacuum test, pressure test, surface grind, usually about $150

600ish if need reco (+parts)

40-150 for composite gasket

330 for a nitto gasket

280 generic brand vrs kit

80-150 new timing belt

1500 guestimate on mechanics labour

100 new fluids

For 4500 i could port machine and supply quality parts

so yeah my quotes are a bit more realistic

id suggest to shop around

Ask the machinists for a vacuum test, pressure test, surface grind, usually about $150

600ish if need reco (+parts)

40-150 for composite gasket

330 for a nitto gasket

280 generic brand vrs kit

80-150 new timing belt

1500 guestimate on mechanics labour

100 new fluids

For 4500 i could port machine and supply quality parts

so yeah my quotes are a bit more realistic

id suggest to shop around

Ok so what does vacuum test, pressure test and surface grind check for, to see if the head it still in good nick? Worst case sinario I f**ked the head and needs to be replaced? How much for a new head? What would be the labor cost invouled with that, or time to put a new head in? What are the vrs kits?

Vacuum test - tests that the ports in the head have a vacuum seal, if it fails then its either leaking via the seats or guides (rb26 heads are known to have flogged out exhaust guides

pressure test - this tests the water ways to make sure there is no cracks, 26 heads rarely crack, sometimes they'll leak via the welsh plug or grub screws

surface grind - this is machined to make sure the gasket sealing face is flat and scratch free to make sure the gasket will seal (as long as they do the right finish to suit the material of the gasket your using)

If it has warp the valves rarely seal so maybe get them to chuck in a straightness check

hope that helps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...