Jump to content
SAU Community

Anyone Removed Hicas In A R32?

3LGODZILA

By 3LGODZILA,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

3LGODZILA Proficient

3LGODZILA

Posted
Posted

any1 done this? not jus a lock bar i mean remove all the crap out of the engine bay etc. car is located in dianella if someone wants to help will offer cash or beers for helping. engine is not in car btw

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385958-anyone-removed-hicas-in-a-r32/
Share on other sites
Char Experienced

Char

Posted
Posted (edited)

Super hicas or hicas?

Ah just rip everything out? Including the solenoid. Make sure you leave the little box under your parcel shelf.

Undo the tie rods from the current bar, they are a reverse thread so hold one side etc. if all else fails, remove one tie rod then rip out the bar with The other tie rod still attached and go buy one from kyp

Edited by Char
3LGODZILA Proficient

3LGODZILA

Posted
  • Author
Posted

its a gtr so does that mean its super hicas?

its already got a tomei lock kit installed i just really wanna get the solenoid etc out the engine bay while the engines out. would i best off to get a lockbar, removing everything then selling the tomei locker kit?

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

its a gtr so does that mean its super hicas?

its already got a tomei lock kit installed i just really wanna get the solenoid etc out the engine bay while the engines out. would i best off to get a lockbar, removing everything then selling the tomei locker kit?

Yes :thumbsup:

Boss-zilla Mentor

Boss-zilla

Posted
Posted

Rick, its spelt Volkswagen! You know you want it!

08 golf James.

Like i said sometimes it will take a few min of blowing hot air before it cools and most times its cold as soon as i hit the button. The compresser and a solenoid are known for stuffing up but generaly once they do it just goes to a mild cool. I'm guessing mine is either on the way out or has a leak (i hope)

For you car ill need about .5 meter of p/s hose and 2 clamps, 1/2in i think.

  • 2 weeks later...
marksuxass Collaborator

marksuxass

Posted
Posted

Have done this mod numerous of times. Best way to go about it is to remove the power steering pump. Remove the rear cover off it (rear sections is the hydyaulic system for the HICAS). Here you will see a round object with little metal inserts slotted into it. These rectangular peices of metal are the vanes of the HICAS pump. Removing these inserts will stop fluid flow through the hicas system. Then you can block of the hole which feeds the HICAS lines, and remove all of the HICAS componants. You should have a loop at the front of the vehicle which can be removed, a solenoid on the front right of the engine, lines that go to the back and another solenoid at the back. If you want pics let me know!

Boss-zilla Mentor

Boss-zilla

Posted
Posted

that or you run the rear section into a cooler. 1/2 a meter of hose and 2 clamps get it done.

Sorry Jimmy have been flat out (dam floors) and forgot to call you will have to book a weekend with you to get this done.

3LGODZILA Proficient

3LGODZILA

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yep ive been flat out too bud.

about your car, its a fairly late model do u know if it has a variable load compressor on it or is it the common type which uses a clutch. (if it constantly clicks in and out then its not a variable compressor)

also how many km's has it done? have u talked to the dealership to see if its maybe a common problem?

coz if its intermittent then i doubt its gonna be a gas issue, its probably gonna be something electronic like a module, which without the proper diagnostic equipment is farking hard to diagnose!

Boss-zilla Mentor

Boss-zilla

Posted
Posted

Its an 08 and i would assume the vaiable type (top of the line model with climet control).

There is a common fault but its not intermittent. Car is out of warranty however im getting it serviced soon so ill get them to run a diagnostic test on it. I think it a sensor that is tripping out when the car sits in the sun all day (getting hot inside) to give a faulse reading. No stress was just hopeing it would be gas as thats an easy (and cheaper) fix.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...