Jump to content
SAU Community

Elecrical Gremlin

R32 TT

By R32 TT,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

R32 TT Mentor

R32 TT

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, hoping for some hints about where to start looking for this.

Have an intermittent problem where I appear to have an complete electrical shutdown. Doesn't do it on Dyno or general driving, didn't do it at recent Powercruise. Only does it at a tight circuit sprint event on corners. Sometimes doesn't do it at all! At first I thought it was only right handers, but it has done it going left also..

Has done it once or twice a couple of years ago with previous engine build, car has had plenty of work during that time, and when the latest incarnation of the motor went in, it got new earths etc.

If you look at this screen shot of the logs, you can plainly see it losing voltage across and regaining it in quick succession. Doesn't appear to be just power to the Motec either, as when that happened - all my stock gauges were bouncing up and down erratically. So it looks like its 'further up the line'. This pulsing is new - it used to cut right out and then just return a second or so later. This is the first time I have been able to 'log it' since Motec appears to have stayed up long enough to keep logging.

I have searched a bit and seen threads about Alternator/fuses/reg etc.. but the problem I have with all this is that if the alternator were cutting out, there is still the battery to keep power. So it must be some sort of open circuit?

One thread somewhere suggested you can have a problem with the ignition barrel even?

Could it be a particular Relay that anyone knows as causing this kind of symptom?

So. Just looking for any brain-storming ideas from you guys who could say what things to check first. Hope to get onto this little gremlin over the christmas break and wanted some ideas and thoughts to make a plan of what to check first.

post-20408-0-66735500-1324199006_thumb.png

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/386039-elecrical-gremlin/
Share on other sites
StevenCJR31 Veteran

StevenCJR31

Posted
Posted

You have checked all your wiring and connectors? sounds like "loose wire syndrome"have heard of wiring being a tad short and only failing when under the stresses of racing (ie body flex)

t_revz Grand Master

t_revz

Posted
Posted

so it looks in that pic like it faulted for about 10 seconds? what happened to the engine when it happened? im just thinking if the engine did die then the stresses on the car should have reduced quickly and the fault should have stopped much quicker then 10 seconds. how long does it usually last?

offer still stands to bring it down here for me to have a look :thumbsup:

R32 TT Mentor

R32 TT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

You have checked all your wiring and connectors? sounds like "loose wire syndrome"have heard of wiring being a tad short and only failing when under the stresses of racing (ie body flex)

Well, I've looked over them and looked for anything obvious yes. I've tried pulling/pushing on them with engine running etc, but can't get anything to fault.

might be a wire with a bit of wear on the outer insulation and when the body is flexing it is shorting out on the body

Yes, could be - I just thought that that kind of thing would almost certainly take out a fuse?

so it looks in that pic like it faulted for about 10 seconds? what happened to the engine when it happened? im just thinking if the engine did die then the stresses on the car should have reduced quickly and the fault should have stopped much quicker then 10 seconds. how long does it usually last?

Yep, dead right. On this particular occssion it was very diffent because it went on/off/on like that.. Engine lost all power, but 'sort of' kept running, backfired, ran rough, stalled etc. Remember I still had road speed and was using the clutch to keep it going as best I could to get it across the finish line. In the past it has just been a plain cut for a second or two and then bam, power comes back and stays. The first few times it did this I thought it was low fuel / fuel surge. But it ain't that.

offer still stands to bring it down here for me to have a look

You're a good man Trev, and I might still take you up on it. Just trying to get some ideas to check in the meantime.

  • 2 weeks later...
Nissan1986 Rookie

Nissan1986

Posted
Posted

I have the exact same problem with my r33 Gtst s2, But my car stalls every time I hit a small bump. Sometimes when I hit a big enough bump it stalls won't start for a couple of seconds and then will. For some reason the airbag light stays on for about 15 mins, had an auto electrician look at it he had no luck all electrical seemed alright, he did mention something about immobiliser if you have one but I had it removed and that didn't do a thing. I could only assume electrical would be the problem do you think putting on diagnostics would display some kind of error message or have you had this done?

R32 TT Mentor

R32 TT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have the exact same problem with my r33 Gtst s2, But my car stalls every time I hit a small bump. Sometimes when I hit a big enough bump it stalls won't start for a couple of seconds and then will. For some reason the airbag light stays on for about 15 mins, had an auto electrician look at it he had no luck all electrical seemed alright, he did mention something about immobiliser if you have one but I had it removed and that didn't do a thing. I could only assume electrical would be the problem do you think putting on diagnostics would display some kind of error message or have you had this done?

Hey Robbie,

Frustrating isn't it... I still have not had a chance to look at the car in any detail due to holidays and people like, y'know, family, getting in my way! :/ Hoping to get onto it soon and will def write back here what I find when I find it. I do have an immobiliser and this is a good place to start I think.

I haven't tried diagnostics simply because there is very little left that the std ECU is controlling - motec now has that job but the only thing its been able to tell me is that power goes missing! (duh!).

R32 TT Mentor

R32 TT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Make shore you have no loose random conections, i had a similer issue were i would lose power, not just electronics but from the eng as well. was found to be a random conection touching my alloy radiator.

Check the drivers side wiring loom above the front right wheel. May have worn/rubbed through

Hmm, thanks guys, I'll check for both. I would have thought though that anything 'touching' and shorting would blow a fuse.. But hey, not ruling anything out at the moment. DVS JEZ are you talking about inside the engine bay nearby fusebox?

R32 TT Mentor

R32 TT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Nope. Above the wheel. Jack the car up and look above the drivers side front wheel. U May see a wiring loom there depending if u have a inner gaurd or not.

How low is ur car?

Not super low. 355mm center of wheel to guard, but it does see track time mostly, and this is where the problem happens so I'll have a closer look there - cheers, just the kinds of tips I was looking for.

bluey33 Experienced

bluey33

Posted
Posted

I have the same issues. Only on handbrake entries in car, will shut off then come back to me a split second or several seconds later. Ended up finding battery terminal loose. Couldn't pull it off the battery post but could spin it with a fair bit of force. Tightened up lower on post, still yet to test it. Hope that's it anyway.

Would not happen on transitions.

bluey33 Experienced

bluey33

Posted
Posted (edited)

Electrical power. Loose everything, power steering in particular which sucks when u got one hand on wheel and other on handbrake. Then when I go to get on gas nothing for quite some time sometimes. Weird cause like i said only and handbrake entries. Does it left hand or right hand aswell.

Has turbo timer but not hooked up to handbrake so that isn't an issue either.

Edited by bluey33
R32 TT Mentor

R32 TT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Electrical power. Loose everything, power steering in particular which sucks when u got one hand on wheel and other on handbrake. Then when I go to get on gas nothing for quite some time sometimes. Weird cause like i said only and handbrake entries. Does it left hand or right hand aswell.

Has turbo timer but not hooked up to handbrake so that isn't an issue either.

Well it should not matter if the battery is connected or not.. "shouldn't". Once the car is started all electrical power comes from the Alternator and the Battery just becomes another load, like headlights.. ie because it is being charged.

You should be able to start your car, then pull the battery cable off the terminal ad everything should keep running...

t_revz Grand Master

t_revz

Posted
Posted

Well it should not matter if the battery is connected or not.. "shouldn't". Once the car is started all electrical power comes from the Alternator and the Battery just becomes another load, like headlights.. ie because it is being charged.

You should be able to start your car, then pull the battery cable off the terminal ad everything should keep running...

disconnecting should make the alternator overcharge as it cant see any voltage from the battery. depending on how high the voltage gets to things might start cutting out .....or blowing up :whistling:

R32 TT Mentor

R32 TT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

disconnecting should make the alternator overcharge as it cant see any voltage from the battery. depending on how high the voltage gets to things might start cutting out .....or blowing up :whistling:

Ah ok. Well I didn't know or think of that.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi. Can someone tell me what brakes(and mainly WHERE) can i buy brakes on R34 GTT? I bought some EBC which SHOULD go on my car(i have GT but it has GTT brakes) but it does not fit, Brakes are "too" small(296mm) Are 310mm be good or? I have 17 inch wheel so no "big boys" but for me driving i just need one that fits and i can get here in EU/Czech.
    • Marek
      Hi everyone.

      By Marek · Posted

      Since winter isn't that harsh anymore in Poland, i will definetely drive it 365 days a year 😉. But if the snow hits i will try it for sure and let U know. Only swap i am planning to do is of course R34 GTR front 😍.
    • Marek
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Marek · Posted

      Hey. Very valuable information about pitwork, I will pay attention when buying any consumable parts 🙏 As for the carpets - I got a handful of information from nengun, from which it appears that indeed the carpets for the driver's side are OEM. They are not able to show me any pictures due to the long chain of different sales entities but after I place the order, as soon as the goods arrive at the nengun warehouse from which they will send the shipment to me they can send me photos and if my purchase differs from OEM I can immediately return it / cancel the purchase. I think I will give it a try 😉. Of course i'll let you know what's what as soon as i get them P.s. I know the topic is not relevant to the thread, but both nengun and amayama have these SICK 😍 trunk room lamps available. Do you know anyone who ordered them? I need to have one in my car
    • ARB26
      S1 Autech 260RS Wiring Diagrams

      By ARB26 · Posted

      I've managed to find this: Nissan_Stagea_AutechVersion260RS (1).pdf
    • MBS206
      Hi everyone.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I believe @Duncan has given it a crack at Mt Buller before (in actual race conditions)
×
×
  • Create New...