Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I also want to know what road tyres are good for GTR, Mine hv 4 simi slick but the car is very hard to handle specially in the mountain. i am after 255/40/17 and how much are they? for the good sec hand one

I had Pirelli P7000's and Yokohama AVS V102's (I think thats what they were from memory)... *awesome* tyres, even when they were bald they had insane amounts of grip... but they wear out damn quickly.

Ive currently got Falken Ziex on mine (255/40/17) and they are crap, I wouldnt reccomend them to anyone. Only reason I got them is because I needed tyres then and there so didnt have much of a choice in that size.

The only tyre Falken make in that size besides the Zeix is the FK451 which is meant to be a pretty good tyre and average on tyre wear... im going to give these a try next time, and are anywhere upto $400 a tyre (the prices on these seem to vary quite alot).

Thanks for the replies,

I am seriously condiering the BF Goodrich g-force in the 255 40 17, for a couple of reasons. They recently out performed the Michellin Pilots in the wet, BFGoodrich is being pushed very hard by it's parent company Michelin in Australia. They come out of the same factory using the same technology as the Michellin's and are about $150~ cheaper than the Pilots. Without haggling these are about $350each.

Previously owning a set of Michelin Pilot on my WRX, which I found to be the best tyre I have ever used BAR NONE FULL STOP, even better than the Conti's on the Benz, if these BF's are as good and claimed to be better, then I think value wise they may be my best option... I'd appreciate any input on the matter.

I too am interested in tyres for my GTR - 265or275/35/18 tho to go on R34 GTR wheels (18x9)

The falkens i have on at the moment may as well be coated with oil they are that bad... (only 245's)....

i'm sure my GTR shouldn't go sideways as easy as it does :)

I have alway been a fan of Yokohamas. I just fitted ES100s to mine in 265/35 R18. I have only had the car 3 weeks but these tyres seem very good so far, have given them a workout through the mountains and went to Willowbank last night. Was a bit worried they might be a little noisey, but so far they have been pretty quiet too. Light years ahead of the tyres it was complied with.

jlnewton: is that on a GTR?

how much did they set you back

i also have always liked yoko's

Yep, they are on a GTR, I hate the big price jump from 17s to 18s! They were nearly $500 a corner. That was the best I could do. The V102s were about $600. I think it worked out about $100 more a tyre than Falken ST115 but I was less than impressed with my trial of Falkens. Falken 326s (I think) were $300ish a trye but I have heard less than favourable comments on them.

I can understand on the front but not sure why you wouldn’t want to go bigger on the rear. If you don’t have traction problems then there is no need you will just place more stress on the drive train but I’m sure more of us have traction problems :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...