Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey,

I jacked up and serviced my car yesterday and installed a pod filter and cold air box and put a new front/dump pipe amongst general servicing stuff. When i put the car back down and took it for a drive the steering all of a sudden became heaps lighter.

My mate and I serviced it and im pretty sure neither of us touched anything to do with the power steering as all we did was disconnect the bottle on the left of the air box to install the cold air box and pod. We did the fuel filter, oil filter, diff and gearbox oil put in the new exhaust and i cant work out why the steering got heaps lighter.

I dont have the greastest knowledge of cars so i dont know my way around the engine bay too well.The only thing i can think of that might have done anything was there was some wires unclipped down near (possibly under) the oil filter that were disconnected and i connected them back up. I have no idea if those wires had anything to do with the power steering but i figured i would ask people who have more knowledge about the subject and see if there is an answer to why the steering became lighter.

thanks

yeah sounds pretty normal....

Thats a bit of a strange one. I thought maybe your HICAS was unplugged (somehow) before and your steering was heavier then it should have been and now is back to normal but I'd say you would have had a HICAS warning. Whats the state of your power steering oil? Maybe it had something blocking some of the flow to/from the pump and its coincedentally cleared during your service. I dunno lol it seems a bit weird that its gotten lighter when you havent touched it.....

I think I actually preferred it a little heavier, but I guess that just because I was used to it. Im going to get a wheel alignment soon, so ill get them t have a quick look over the steering while they have it just to make sure theres nothing major going on.Does anyone else have any idea as to what might have caused the steering to go light all of a sudden?

I'm with Bubba, sounds like you have plugged part of the steering rack etc back in.

Unplug the cable you plugged back in and see what happens.

How heavy was heavy? Was it like need two hands on the wheel all the time to turn, or just a bit firmer?

Most likely find you had the solenoid unplugged that changes PS pressure depending on speed.

i didnt put any air in the tyres or anything like that. The steering wasnt super heavy, like you could still do it with one hand, but it was considerably heavier before. I will try unplugging the cable next time i go for a drive and see if it makes a difference.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...