Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So it appears that my 4th gear is on the way out - I believe it's out of sync. Just starting to crunch when going 5th to 4th and sometimes 3rd into 4th-under higher revvs normally.

Does anybody know someone/rebuild gearboxes and have an idea on prices etc or rexomendations on who is best to see?

Or alternatively am I better off sourcing another second second hand box?

I'm running r33 s1.5 box in my 34 so I'd like to keep the push type clutch as it's only 5000km since fitted.

Any advice appreciated. Thanks

dump the oil and put in Redline MTL or 80-90 wt oil,(NOT SHOCKPROOF!!!) that solves most cases without tearing the box apart. 4gear failure ??? normally its 2nd from ham fisted shifting

other synthetic oil wont do the same job to help the tranny .... believe me.

shockproof is too slippery for synchros to mesh properly dont use it on a 5 spd skyline

did you change the spigot bearing ???? if not that can cause the same problems when it goes

I will give an oil change as suggested and see what that does. Gearbox has only been in for 5000 km - came from a 33 I wrecked and I know the previous owner had no troubles.

I Didnt put the box in myself -Someone did it for me as I was to busy at the time- but from memory the spigot bearing was replaced- the oil in the box prior to instalation was very poor and dirty and I would think that the oil put in since then-5000km- really should be replaced anyway.

Thanks simon- if oil change does nothing I will pm you regarding contact :)

yeah if the oil doesnt solve it mate and the clutch is installed right ,

then a good box builder is rare find. MV automatics are well known for autoboxes ... but nfi who can do 5 spds worth a shite . it takes a lot of special tools to rebuild boxes in most cases

Redline has been the only oil that seems to fix up 5 spds with borderline issues, I've tried all of them over a lot of years . amsoil would be my next choice but its super hard to find and expensive as hell.

watch out too redline comes in US amounts quarts ,gallons not litres so get enough for your box. about 100 bucks or so is normal cost and lasts for a long long time. if It wasnt such a pain to catch and refill I would let you have mine to test it in your box before buying it. its only 6 months old , maybe 3k on it .... but being dumped in two weeks to fit a new NPC clutch/flywheel, nismo short shift and tranny seals and refilled with new MTL ??? bring a bucket to the shop ..lol

and simon ash is running my car up on the dyno and the nistune afterwards , should be interesting :thumbsup:

Thanks for the advice. I'm about to pick up a bottle from autobahn $114!!! Il drop it and replace and see what difference it makes and let you know. Hoping this solves it as I really wasn't budgeting for a rebuild or new box. Haha if I was in the city I'd swing by with a bucket cos it's always good being a tightarse :D.. lol..,but bein in the hills makes it probably a bit much work!

Clutch should be Installed right-it was done by a workshop-

Will let you know how I go shortly.

Redline doesnt recommend shockproof in the stock 5 spd Skyline boxes , it can cause problems with the brass synchros , "Redline Australia techs words when I called them for sponsorship/group buy discounts"

drag 5spd or ham fisted shifts it might protect the gears but not for street use

I run it in rear axle Nismo LSD , the temp is way lower and lockup is much much better, way better then the Nismo gear oil it had before, just odd when you have Blue smurfs blood in 140W that pours out of the bottle like coke not like the normal gear oil of old days.

if you want to see some interesting things, put normal engine oil in a cup and deep freeze it, synthetic in another , leave for a day , then try to pour it out, normal oil will be frozen nearly solid the synthetic will pour near normal. even 0W normal oil will freeze and need a spoon to get out,

(never use 0w in australia unless your running in the snow fields all the time)

Thanks for the advice Troy. Have changed it and it runs a hell of a lot smoother. Seems to of cleaned up the crunching with the small spin I took it on. If it does reoccur I will give you a pm Simon for contact details. Many thanks. Eli

No problems- will do. Took it for another long drive up the south eastern freeway this avo and it has been smooth and noticeably different in every gear. It was crunching more under higher revs previously so next time I'm out giving it a bit more il see how it goes but il be surprised if it does crunch at all. Thanks again.

your welcome, you will also notice the tranny temp is lower now , and power loss to the drivetrain is less = more power at the wheels , ever bit less friction helps

the same holds true for the engine oils etc. you can feel the difference instantly after changing to it . (it is the only oil certified for use on F18 engines that spin extremely fast. faster then a turbo )

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...