Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello All,

There may be an easy or hard answer to this.

Basically I would love for my AC to blow more air, does anyone know if the fan speed can be made to blow faster than the current max as it really doesn't blow as full on as I would like. . As setting 1 is barely blowing. .

Cheers

Setting 1 is not meant to blow much air thats why its setting 1, if its not pumping out much air on the fifth setting then maybe you should be worried.

A simple AC regas with colder air coming out of the vents will (or should!) make it feel better to the point where you really wont want it on the max setting for any long periods.

Setting 1 is not meant to blow much air thats why its setting 1, if its not pumping out much air on the fifth setting then maybe you should be worried.

A simple AC regas with colder air coming out of the vents will (or should!) make it feel better to the point where you really wont want it on the max setting for any long periods.

Yep AC Regas is to be done shortly. . But I want a Typhoon on 5, and a decent breeze on settings 2-4. . . . .

Hello All,

There may be an easy or hard answer to this.

Basically I would love for my AC to blow more air, does anyone know if the fan speed can be made to blow faster than the current max as it really doesn't blow as full on as I would like. . As setting 1 is barely blowing. .

Cheers

Hey Jules, have you replaced your Pollen Filter? If it's blocked solid; your fan might as well be blowing through a brick wall...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/129786-air-con-filter/page__st__60__p__5719772__hl__m35+pollen+filter__fromsearch__1#entry5719772

On 5, my fan would just about blow you out the window.thumbsup.gif

Cheers, Dale

I still need to sort out my thermo fan. Did these things come with a factory unit? Mine looks like it's running an aftermarket thermo fan.

Yours has an HDI intercooler kit right?

Factory fan won't fit behind it, so it would've been swapped for a thinner unit.

Yours has an HDI intercooler kit right?

Factory fan won't fit behind it, so it would've been swapped for a thinner unit.

Blitz unit on his actually. But yeah, good chance itd have something aftermarket in there Id say.

Blitz unit on his actually. But yeah, good chance itd have something aftermarket in there Id say.

Yep I have the Blitz. It's wired up but uses scotch locks and they have failed me about six thousand times in the last month so it's probably them. :rolleyes:

Hey Jules, have you replaced your Pollen Filter? If it's blocked solid; your fan might as well be blowing through a brick wall...

http://www.skylinesa..._1#entry5719772

On 5, my fan would just about blow you out the window.thumbsup.gif

Cheers, Dale

Dale your a man of many good ideas. . I'll order one and replace anyway. . . it's probably the culprit I reckon. .

How have those SS brackets for the front sways/links holding up. .

After 5 years I have finally clocked up 80k!

Jules

Ha ha ha, You're a funny bunch of guys. . thumbsup.gif I sold my Tommi Makkinen with 16500 on the clock after 5 years of ownership. . Every K I drive is with love and passion. . 3some.gif

I catch the train to work and mainly drive it on weekends. . I'm sure when my wife goes on mat leave and loses company car the Stag will get some use . .

Dale your a man of many good ideas. . I'll order one and replace anyway. . . it's probably the culprit I reckon. .

How have those SS brackets for the front sways/links holding up. .

After 5 years I have finally clocked up 80k!

Jules

I tried a bunch of different ways to mount a H/D link, and was never really happy with the clearance at all adjustment positions. The OEM links are strong & reliable; I haven't heard of anyone damaging one, and by the time I re-invented the wheel, there wouldn't have been a cost benefit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...