Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just Get QLD rego, send him to an engineer and get a mod plate. Why all the fuss? Technically you dont need a modplate until you get pinged by a cop anyway.

Or until you have a car accident and the modification is noticed. Then your property, 3rd party property, and CTP insurance becomes invalid and you spend the rest of your life riding a bus because every cent you earn goes to paying off your debt. If is above board you minimise your chances of having issues later.

A dodgy RWC could be obtained but that doesn't protect you down the road. All it allows you to do is bypass a step and allow you to get number plates on the car. Its still not legal.

RB25/30's I've seen in QLD Skylines all had mod plates. Its a general engine substitution code LA1. Any QLD workshop that does engine conversions of any kind can at least point you in the right direction. If your lucky they can even do the code for you.

Just curious, but can VIC transport defect a QLD registered and modification approved car?

What about aftermarket turbos? is there a issue with that?

Ive called a few placed in QLD and have secured a rwc agreement. The issue atm is sorting out a Mod Plate, just dont want to risk giving the car to the buyer then him running into issues in qld with the mod plate.

From my understanding, any vehicle with outer state state rego cannot be defected at all.

Ah right in that case I'd be giving Dan at ERD a call, pretty sure he can do mod plates and roadworthies. He's a top bloke and will be able to tell you exactly where you stand with every mod. Screamer and no cats won't fly though lol.

07 3807 2789 or [email protected] will get you in touch.

Shame you have to sell it, sounds like a weapon :)

Left a message, hopefully ill hear something soon. Yeh it sure is a shame ive had this car since high school. but gota move on at some point. Recently posted the final tune in the RB30 dyno results section. Check it out.

Edited by Jap_Muscle

Or until you have a car accident and the modification is noticed. Then your property, 3rd party property, and CTP insurance becomes invalid and you spend the rest of your life riding a bus because every cent you earn goes to paying off your debt. If is above board you minimise your chances of having issues later.

A dodgy RWC could be obtained but that doesn't protect you down the road. All it allows you to do is bypass a step and allow you to get number plates on the car. Its still not legal.

RB25/30's I've seen in QLD Skylines all had mod plates. Its a general engine substitution code LA1. Any QLD workshop that does engine conversions of any kind can at least point you in the right direction. If your lucky they can even do the code for you.

Exactly. I'm not saying the buyer should just drive it without it being engineered/approve/modplated. But your car is pretty much all normal for QLD so just sell it to him and direct him where to go to get it all sorted. But if you are the one that has to get it all sorted. Certainly shop around or even find a friend on here cause there's definitely a chance of being un-necessarily shafted by some workshop.

rb26/30 (must be mod plated)

intercooler holes under battery tray (may require a mod plate have an engineer inspect)

reo bar slightly modified for front bar (may be illegal have an engineer inspect)

3.5 straight pipe with muffler, no cats (highly illegal!! have some fitted)

screamer (highly illegal!! have it plumbed in)

u will find you'll prob need a mod plate for the non standard turbo as well. but check with an engineer.

I'd say he's working on VIC regs.

QLD Transport CAN and DO emission test you, see a recent thread in this section about it. My XF was also tested once, although I didn't get a defect or fine as it is not a skyline...

However, I've never heard of it having to be done for rego or a mod plate before.

EDIT: You only get away without a mod plate if that particular engine (RB30) was offered as a standard option for the model you are installing it in (R34). It wasn't, so you WILL need a mod plate.

Really?? i was talking to the people at qld transports modifications desk and they told me they dont do them at all and i'd need take the car interstate to have it done.

Really?? i was talking to the people at qld transports modifications desk and they told me they dont do them at all and i'd need take the car interstate to have it done.

This.

AFAIK Sydney is closest.

u will find you'll prob need a mod plate for the non standard turbo as well. but check with an engineer.

Qld laws are pretty basic, only things I've ever seen people need a mod plate for is engine conversion or to change the seating capacity.

Qld laws are pretty basic, only things I've ever seen people need a mod plate for is engine conversion or to change the seating capacity.

I think what is complicating this excercise is the fact that im trying to do it down here in VIC.

will keep you guys posted on whats happening as im seeing another engingeer

AFAIK the word from QT is that if an intercooler hole is under 100mm and isnt in a place that can do damage then its fine by them. That was a reply someone got back from QT in regards to the topic posted on another forum. Dont get the reo checked over because it cant be mod plated and would cost a million dollars to fix and engineer. Everyone has their front reo missing.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry guys i completely forgot about this thread.

Sold the car a few weeks ago to a different buyer. Wanted to handle things himself so i just sold it to him as is. No mod plates no RWC no nothing! I guess he knew what he was doing. Sorry if i couldnt be more help guys.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...