Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ER 34 (GTT 34) 1999 Model (Black) Regis until 2005 Jan 31

the car still available, edited at 28th April, 2004, Now asking $39,500 . MUST SELL Price negotiable

185kw at wheels running only at 0.8 bar!!!

Specifications:

· Sun Roof

· Ganador bullet side-mirrors (M3 like)

· FGK mid-end Muffler

· GT-Wing

· Black racing 18” wheels (Bridgestone S03, still 80% new)

· Full C-West Body kits

· Nismo short shift (30% less distance than original)

· Nismo Full set lower arm bars/tension roll (30% stronger than originals, Great for cornering/drift, total 6 pieces)

· Porsche 955 brake kits (Brembo made), with German imported racing brake pads, Goodrides brake hosts

· Project U racing disc for GTR Size. (80% New)

· HKS intercooler (big size)

· HKS Air intake kits (20% more air intake/ stained steel)

· HKS SQV blowoff

· HKS Hipper Max 2 suspensions

· HKS Turbo timer

· HKS Front pipe

· RSR Turbo outlet * Defi Link Projector Speed/Rev display

· Cusco rear bar

· Blize Boost controller and ID power meter

· C-West earthlink (for sustainable electronic devices)

· Trust air flow

· Boomerang Alarm system (best alarm in the market)

· Carbon fiber tail lights cover made in Japan only for R34 ranges. Can’t find a second one in Melbourne!!!

· Full Alpine range stereo: Speakers (6 sets), V12 amp, Headunit/ Rockfoler 12” sub

· Not to mention other “standard” things come with the car: HID Xenon light, TCS control and lots more…

With 4,9000 km, has been take a good care by a careful driver. Most of the parts are bought/ordered directed from Japan, only the best suitable parts are put into the car!!! Don’t miss out this great offer!Now asking :flamed: NOW ASKING $39,500 . MUST SELL Price negotiable. Reply here if want any pics, or Call 0403582831 (Patrick) for details.

NOTE: The Car now is having original front bumper, buyer will get the brand new c west front bumper, i just repaint it so it could save buyer some money and time :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38782-bmelbourne-r34-gtt-for-saleb/
Share on other sites

patboy34: thought i'd save u the trouble of emailing pics :cheers: - here's the car guys, looks very, very nice... unfortunately out of my price range....

enjoy! :D

dsc01129.jpg

dsc01130.jpg

dsc01133.jpg

dsc01138.jpg

might want to edit the thread title as well, like "with pics now" or something

cheers.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...