Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

oh hello,

sorry if im bringing up something that is already covered somewhere on here, however i cant find anything relevant through searching :/

anyway my problem is the plastic mud cover that screws under the engine ( driver side in front of the tire) has snapped and is currently being held up by string i managed to find n do a highwayside repair.

so the question being does anyone know what this is called and how do i get a new one?

don't really wanna cable tie it up as it had already been done before and ripped the plastic.

secondly a while back i was re-calibrating my central locking so that the passenger door would open with the driver door,

all i was doing was loosening a screw from a bit of metal that holds two steel rods together,

adjusting the stop height,

and tightening until it was right and basically the passenger door locked as it should.

got it all sorted and went to give it a final lock off so i wouldnt have to worry about it again and snapped the part because i screwed it too tight... :(

sorry for the lengthy explanation

is anyone familiar with this part / knows what it is called and how i can order another one?

thanks :D

  • 1 year later...

anyway my problem is the plastic mud cover that screws under the engine ( driver side in front of the tire) has snapped and is currently being held up by string i managed to find n do a highwayside repair.

hey buddy this is usually referred to as a guard liner or splash guard... best bet would be to ask around with people who are wrecking a r33 or try import wreckers...

regards

Corin

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...