Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This probably has happened before to someone and hopefully someone can point me in the right direction.

Last month I got my Power FC installed and car tuned at Ultimate. When it was tuned the guys noticed the engine light flashing, and tuned it for the knock the Power FC was telling them. Now under slight load, the light flickers, but no I can't hear any sign of knock in the engine.

They did suggest to run a few bottles of injection cleaner through the system, but that hasn't made any difference.

I also did some research but still can't put any one finger on a problem. So any advice would be appreciated on how to fix it. They did offer a retune at no extra cost, but I want this problem fixed before it goes back.

Cheers guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/387982-something-very-confusing/
Share on other sites

what knock is the powerfc showing on the hand controller? 60+ will flash the check engine light

is the engine water temp getting to 100+? this will also bring the check engine light on.

does your exhaust still have the cat temp sensor? from memory in the R32 this detecting the exhaust is too hot will turn on the check engine light.

I have GReedy temp gauges for front and rear of the engine and it does go above 100 degrees and I will have to check the exhaust. But the temp on the stock gauge does read normal. And have never had the knock go above 60.

The car does run 98 all the time.

And the tune was about $560 from memory, but that was also them installing the power fc and boost controller.

The tune was done a month ago.

I know the knock it has isn't as good as it should be, but finding out whats wrong with it is extremely hard as noone can put a finger on it, or point me in the right direction.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity. Edit: 11kg each (or 10.9/11.1 depending on what my scale decides over multiple tests, the 18x11 don't seem to weigh noticeably any more than 10.5)  
×
×
  • Create New...