Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what have you fellow r33/r34 GTST/GTT owners out there installed to adjust or fix camber on the front of your cars?

i've read that the adjustible arms (from just jap) can be a pain to adjust whilst on car. can anyone confirm this?

the superpro kit will require the stock arms to be removed, old bushes removed and new joints pressed in = more time the car is off the road.

pros & cons of each kit and any personal experience with either in regards to installion, adjustment, etc.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388112-r33r34-front-camber/
Share on other sites

What you're saying is pretty accurate - The design is such that they are hard to adjust on car with the JJR arms and the superpro bushes will require you to press out/in as required.

If you want adjustable camber, you'll need to make a choice: re the above lol.

I've got the JJ ones.

Cost me $55 at JAX in Liverpool each time I do my wheel alignment before track days I get 3.5 front and 2.5 rear, then returned to street setting after.

They need to remove my front wheels and get it up on a hoist to adjust the front, all up takes them about 45 minutes max, nothing about bushes, a couple of big spanners is all that is needed.

I'm wanting adjustable castor arms ? now.

The bushes will be cheaper so if you are only chasing a degree or so adjustment for a street car they would be fine.

Myself, I'd get the arms for maximum adjustability.

ive been wondering this for a little while, was leaning more towards the adjustable arms but my question is whether there is much of a difference or benefit between the rubber bushes on the arms or pillowballs?? any help appreciated :)

Ive had my wheel aligments done about 15 to 20 times there over the last 3-4 yrs, LOL.

Ive had no problems with them, just be sure to tell them what you want it for, a couple of guys there do drifting and some trackdays, the boss owns a Rambler Gremlin drag car.

Go have a chat to them.

thanks for the info guys,

definitely made up my mind and getting the adjustible arms now.

Mark/MLR, do they do good work @ jax??

I put the Superpro ones in man, my mate showed me the tricks to fitting them and the second side i did in the car without any drama.... Hammer to knock the old bush out, a couple of accurate love taps and they fall out and then when fitting the new ones in i just used a monster set of multi grips and squeezed them in, was pretty easy to fit.... As for adjustment, i reckon its going to be harder but it all depends on the competence of the tyre guys you use i guess......

OR i could just leave them adjusted where they are at MAX neg camber :nyaanyaa:

i believe they only provide -/+ 0.05 degrees camber which is sfa lol

might as well pay bit more and get heaps more adjustment in the adjustible arms.

You;re doing something wrong if you're only getting that much adjustment! :laugh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you pay with a credit card? I'd be putting a charge back through then finding a new sparky to sort it out. 
    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...