Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, I recently went to nissan and bought all the stuff to put on a R33 series 2 front bumper correctly.

Got everything but a SPACER-BMPR,LH, p/n: NI-62095-24U00

They said it was coming from Japan, 4 weeks turned to 8 weeks, and now they cant find it in store.

Does anyone know what it is? Im guessing theres a RH and LH one, and it spaces the bumper from the car body around the sides. I can probably fabricate something myself, im guessing its not fancy, it was $3. But i need details before i do that.

Also if someone has a series 2 front bumper expanded view that would be EXTREMELY appreciated. I have looked everywhere, even in my nissan manual that i bought but its only got series 1. Im just doing guesswork atm.

Any help would be appreciated!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388128-putting-on-a-series-2-front-bumper/
Share on other sites

O.K so are you going from a series 1 bumper to a series 2 bumper?

If so you will need:

  • The Series 2 Front bumper
  • The Series 2 REO bar (reinforcement bar that the bumper clips/bolts onto)
  • Series 2 headlights
  • Series 2 bonnet (The series 1 bonnet does fit but doesnt look good
  • Series 2 Grille

This is what it looks like with the series 1 bonnet and series 2 everything else:

image069.jpg

As for the spacer.... Well I dunno, that could be a bit of foam that I know some other car manufacturers use just to take up space between the metal work and the bumper (My girlfriends old astra had this) But I dont think This is on the series 2...... Perhaps the white clip that holds the bumper on and in position? Did you get a price on it?

If I'm completely off track then disregard All I have said :) lol

Hi,

Nah its a series 2 car already, i took off the bumper and stuff to clean up in the inside and change a few things. I noticed that it was missing clips and stuff, obviously the previous owner had taken it off and didnt put it on correctly.

Yeah im guessing its something around the side that spaces the bumper a bit? Theres a small gap between the grill and the bumper, this extends to the lights but around the side it disappears. Maybe the spacers keep it uniform there.

That being said i just asked for them to give me all the parts for it, they mighta given extra stuff not used. I do still have a few parts i have no idea where they go.

I think ill just ask them to order the LH and RH side again and see how it goes. Atm it looks ok anyway.

Also whats the difference between the series 1 and 2 bonnet?

Oh really?

Ynow, looking at your pic, and seeing your description, i think i have a series 1 bonnet as well!

I knew something was up, and when i saw your pic mine looked very similar.

Series 2 bonnets seem to have more pronounced ridges too it seems.

Ive attached a pic of mine without the grill in, can you confirm for me? Looks series 1 to me.

post-60878-0-08841800-1326511840_thumb.jpg

I have recently been down this path converting a Series 1.5 to a Series II.

There are white plastic clips that sit on top of the front reo that the front bar locates into that are probably the clips that you are talking about. These space the bar in the right place and also provide a rub point between them to stop the front bar from rubbing the paint off the reo and creating rust spots.

Here is a picture of them circled in red.

post-24210-0-41694300-1326970573_thumb.jpg

I have recently been down this path converting a Series 1.5 to a Series II.

There are white plastic clips that sit on top of the front reo that the front bar locates into that are probably the clips that you are talking about. These space the bar in the right place and also provide a rub point between them to stop the front bar from rubbing the paint off the reo and creating rust spots.

Here is a picture of them circled in red.

post-24210-0-41694300-1326970573_thumb.jpg

Is that a brand new reo? If so do you mind telling me how much it was?

Hi victory,

Thanks for the feedback. Yep I've got those clips, they came with the bunch of stuff I got. I don't think they are the spacers the sheet is referring to though.

I've asked Nissan to order some more in so when I get them I'll update you guys

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is [email protected]   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
    • shit boxes, kids, and daily drivers are all welcome
    • Cam seals go hard. It's a very old car.
×
×
  • Create New...