Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well just got a heap of detonation on my 25 and have decided to pull the motor down and rebuild it.......again, the only things im going to need to change will be pistons,headgaskeet and new bearings.

i have done the n1 pump,oil pump drive gear,oil restrictors,26 rods,arp studs everywhere blah blah blah.

chasing 400hp and i know a standard 25 will do it but im wanting a bit of safety so decided of forged pistons and cometic headgasket, what brand pistons are doing well in 25's at the moment and what ones to stay away from, going to be boring it out 40 thou aswell.

tim

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388464-rb25det-forged-pistons/
Share on other sites

Sounds too far fine to even bother comp testing if you are getting oil ontop of the piston...

Its kind of hard to say. I do know you can get drop in forged pistons which fit the standard bore but do you know if your bores are good? Is the crack still fine? Lots of things to check. If you were upgrading a healthy motor it would be fine, buy if you got a heap of detonation, you need to sus it out. Even head valves, are they still good?

Hyper gear on here has replacement pistons, I think cp make direct replacements.

going to be boring it out 40 thou aswell.

Why?

Only go as far as you require.

Get a set of Weisco/CP/Mahle from the states. All are good, little issues with any really. More about getting the numbers/build right.

My engine builder said to avoid mahle, they are apparently very loud and the way they are made you have to bend the oil squirters. I just got a set of 86.5mm cp for $800 delivered.

everyone who doesnt have mahles seams to say that yet i've never heard any complaints from people actually using them

If squirters squirt oil through a gallery in the bottom of the pistons into the rings then yes my 25 does.

My new cp pistons don't have the gallery. I just hope that isn't going to cause too many problems.

Edited by lilcrash

The issue is the pistons are solid across the pin supports?? There is no cut out for the squirters in mahle pistons.

I can tell you 100% certain that my block is stock rb25 and it has squirters.

Rb26 and rd28s have the block mounted squirters,

Rb25de/t don't so your most likely using rb26 squirters

lilcrash might suggest another machinist if he is having issues with a basic piston like mahle

je and cp are what id recommend

Dude no offense but you are 100% wrong.

Rb25 definitely have squirters.

Every rb25 I have had the sump off has had more squirters than a Asian porno

well just got a heap of detonation on my 25 and have decided to pull the motor down and rebuild it.......again, the only things im going to need to change will be pistons,headgaskeet and new bearings.

i have done the n1 pump,oil pump drive gear,oil restrictors,26 rods,arp studs everywhere blah blah blah.

chasing 400hp and i know a standard 25 will do it but im wanting a bit of safety so decided of forged pistons and cometic headgasket, what brand pistons are doing well in 25's at the moment and what ones to stay away from, going to be boring it out 40 thou aswell.

tim

valves?

25 valves are knowing to be soft and get worse with age, may not need them but i would change them to be safe.

Valve float you mean...? Not the actual valves...

It's very hit and miss debate that one. Lots of people are fine, lots of people aren't.

If the head is in good condition it shouldn't really be a problem as the aim is very moderate, so there won't be a big huffer going onto it. One of the things you don't really need to "do" unless it is actually a problem.

Plenty have made 350-400rwkw on stock heads without changing the springs.

Ye some get to 300rwkw and get valve float. Suck it an see i say.

http://ipg-supertech.com/cart.php?target=product&product_id=1300&category_id=853

take advantage of the aus to american dollar (but thats if you want to go all out nuts with the head) then you'd prob want cams, then solid lifters, then porting next thing you've spent around 4k in parts and labour on just the head

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...