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A while after I had my clutch pedal adjusted it started making some scraping sounds (best way I can describe it) that went away and came back a few days ago. So I'm pretty sure it was caused by too much pressure on the throw out bearings and I read that all I had to do was shorten the clutch pedal. After trying this and going for a drive eventually my clutch starts making loud eerie screeching sounds, engaged and disengaged and now I'm to scared to drive home. Help!

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What kind of clutch?

How old is it? or how much wear do you reckon its got?

Did you ever have it replaced? if so what was done?

I got a brass button clutch (it sux) and its sometimes noisy when i slip it. (grindy whine sound).

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Im pretty much clueless with the history of my car. So its a throwout bearing problem, but I've been told to replace the whole clutch which I doubt I can afford. Do you know any decent clutch kits for a good price? I dont need anything fancy and clutches are beyond me

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Im pretty much clueless with the history of my car. So its a throwout bearing problem, but I've been told to replace the whole clutch which I doubt I can afford. Do you know any decent clutch kits for a good price? I dont need anything fancy and clutches are beyond me

If it's the throw out bearing, I wouldn't think the whole clutch needs to be replaced. While it's apart though, it would be recommended to do anyway depending on a few things like wear, power output, prospective future modifications etc. Just don't let someone upsell you something you don't need lol

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The first guy I called today told me to replace the clutch, something like 'because the gearbox has to come out anyway'. Not exactly helpful. Do you know any good places that can give me a good verdict on whether I have to replace the whole clutch or just the bearing?

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what the hells an esp?

hahah do you know their details?

6244 9999, they're in QBN on Gilmore Road (just off Canberra Ave). It's where I had all my engine work done.

To be honest, the "because gearbox is out" is semi-logical. Labour for most general workshops on a gearbox removal and install is kinda steep, so if you're only running a standard clutch or if it's getting warn out, it really is a reason to do it now to save the couple of hundred dollars labour having to remove the gearbox next time when it DOES die in the ass

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Exedy triple plate is what I'm running it's good and stiff

He's running a stock N/A, utter overkill and he doesn't need it stiff and hard, just a normal clutch feel.

Any of the heavy duty organic clutches should be fine. Jim berry clutch's are also very good as he cutom makes it to what you need, but again over kill for what you need. Exedy will be fine, don;t get sucked into the button plate, no need for a N/A.

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Noo.. thats the kind of thing ive got.

Its no good, i dont know why people would fit a clutch that doesent slip properly.

I didnt fit mine it was on the car.

See on just jap the pbr oem replacement, it has a circular friction plate. Like that but get the heavy duty one, its like the standard one just a bit stronger.... perfect.

Dunno who makes one for you.

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Noo.. thats the kind of thing ive got.

Its no good, i dont know why people would fit a clutch that doesent slip properly.

I didnt fit mine it was on the car.

See on just jap the pbr oem replacement, it has a circular friction plate. Like that but get the heavy duty one, its like the standard one just a bit stronger.... perfect.

Dunno who makes one for you.

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=17236&cat=522&page=1

that one? out of stock

seems like nothing has worked out for me at all this week

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I might be able to take a look on Saturday/Sunday.

BTW, RB20/25/30 clutches are all the same (except maybe the 30ET). I don't know why manufacturers list different part numbers.

You would most likely only want a organic face, I don't think they come in a puck configuration. I'm sure I heard ceramic faces should avoid slipping or they will be not useable and can not be recovered.

Troy is right, if the clutch is in good condition, why waste money buying another clutch. Just buy another bearing, if the mechanics say you need a new one (after inspection) you can get exceedy kits locally and they should be able to get trade price.

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When the gearbox comes off you can see how thick the friction plate is (how much is left like brake pads).

Even if there is an inspection hole you probably cant see how much is left,

excl.gif BUT if you can see it you will be able to make a decision whether to buy a new clutch before the box comes off, heaps better. So try hard to look. Its worth it.

Putting it in yourself is difficult because you gotta lift the car high and the box is heavy and you need a clutch aligning tool (gearbox input shaft)

I love to DIY but this job is a pain and if you need the flywheel machined etc... too much hassle, maybe you should get a shop to do the work AND get the clutch and all that.

Its just gunna cost and your gunna have to pay.

PS: go over your adjustment one more time and really make sure its right.

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