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My 1994 V-Spec II N1

Many Thanks go to...

* JLM for sourcing this specimen and having it inspected; but also using a bidding ploy to secure a winning bid.

* Iron Chef for acceding to JLM's request for one of Kristian's team on the ground to inspect this car before auction.

* Aussie_Delivered_R32_GTR for sourcing a perfect condition steering wheel, Blitz DSBC, Bilstein shocks, Nissan OK sticker

* Wongy for sourcing 'Old Style' Genuine Nismo floor mats via GTROC and Newera Parts

* Luke_GTR for sourcing 'Old Style' Nismo radiator cap

* JLM for sourcing 'Old Style' Nismo oil cap and Nismo key holder

* Count Grantleyish for sourcing 'Old Style' Nismo seat belt pads

* Aggroman for sourcing 'Old Style' Nismo kill switch lighter

* Kudos for Nismo brake lines and clutch lines and Nismo fuel pressure regulator

* Sean_GTR for Nismo 555cc fuel injectors

* iwantr34gtr for Nismo fuel pump

* NURVOUS for Nismo fuel cap

* lochilea for Nismo LMGT1 18x10" wheels

* kamikaze for Nismo LMGT1 18x9.5" wheels

* Redline_GTR for sourcing N1 decals (albeit R34 GTR design)

* mxfly for an expert detail and Fujimura front splitter

* Just Jap for HKS Silent Power 80mm exhaust and air diversion plate and KPGC110 grille badge and 'Old Style' Nismo badges

* Andrew Sullivan for 'Old Style' Nismo boot sticker

* Redline_GTR for 'Old Style' Nismo strut brace sticker

* Drewr for HKS gauge pod with gauges

* deongster for wiring and sensors for the HKS gauges

* DBA for T3 Series 4000 F&R brake rotors

* Bridgestone Select Blacktown for new tyres

* Carbon Car Systems Blactown for security system

* Steve's Auto Barn Blackheath for wheel alignment

* SAUers (I've forgotten sorry) for D-Spec clear indicator lenses, Tomei sump baffle kit, Nismo castor rods, 'Old Style' Nismo horn button

* GT-R Magazine for doing a photoshoot stitched up by JLM > Issue #120 January 2015

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  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
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    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
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