R33 Gtst Rad Cap/cooling System

[waanders]

Hey guys new to these things, i bought a 25det 33 a few months ago with a few probs, basically wastegate was half open from previous owners doing a crap job of bolting in a 3076, have flushed cooling system, radiator has been stripped and cleaned, has a new thermostat (rb30) and system has been bled as well as i can (using bleed screw) i put a new genuine rad cap on the other day and when cold i can squeese top hose and make oveeflow bubble? Is this normal? Gets hot on my hill which is 6 kms of uphill but even cruzing the needel rises fast, chem test shows no co2 in cooling either, please give me some ideas

[The Bogan]

When the car is cold start it up with the radiator cap off, let it warm up and add coolant if needed, then replace the cap and shut it down, when it cools check the level and top up if needed.

Ensure the overflow bottle is at the high point throughout this proccess.

This is how I do it anyway.

[ARTZ]

sure its not a non turbo radiator..how thick is it, does it have the shroud still..?

[waanders]

Im not sure on the radiator, dont really know how to tell, will try bleed system once again, was thinking of buying a 52mm alloy radiator, yes shroud is fitted

[The Bogan]

For got to mention to have your heater on full whilst doing it to flush the heater core.

[mad082]

start with a new radiator cap. pretty sure the stock pressure for the cap is 0.9bar. make sure you get one that is the stock pressure. don't get a higher rated cap.

if that doesn't help the situation then i'd look at getting a new water pump. it may be that it wasn't changed at the 100,000km service (if it's been done) and they can wear out to a point where they have no blades left so they don't pump water.