Jump to content
SAU Community

C63 Owner About To Testdrive Gtr Needing Help


Recommended Posts

Hi People... Thanks in advance

Ok... Without beating around the bush, I need to be convinced on the following.

Car is going to be used for the track 60% and road 40%.

Want to do Supersprint series.

and drive it to my dads on the weekend.

1) What are the running costs for a full track day. Tyres/Brakes/Tuning/Oil?

2) Is the car a Cop magnet. Like can I feel comfortable cruising in the car without being labelled..?

3) Has Resale value and take up been good for a 3 year old? Can the cars sell?

4) Is there a club in Sydney, that has regular meet ups, that has some people that use their car mainly for the track?

5) Anything else I should know.

Thanks again...

Am pumped !!!

I've had my R35 for about 3 years and done 40+ track days.

1. Running costs: a set of tyres will cost from $2000~$3200 and will last from 1 to 4 track days. It depends on what tyres you want (OEM, R's, Slicks) and what sort of events you do. You'll need to upgrade rotors and pads for track, and replace them every 5 to 10 track days depending on pads and rotor selected. The pads will cost about $800~$1000 a set and rotors about $800ea. However the rear pads/rotors will last 3x longer than fronts or longer. When tracking regularly i replace diff, trans and engine fluids every 5000km. Budget about $500 to $1000 for that depending on fluids selected.

2. Cops have never come near me, and i daily drive it in Sydney (have for 3 years)

3. I purchased the car for $167k drive away and i hazard a guess it's worth $100~$110k now (PM me if you want to buy!)

4. Once you start doing sprints you will meet heaps of people

5. By far the biggest cost for me was upgrading bits and bobs.. active wing, e85 setup, new coilovers, exhausts, etc.

The car is a fantasic track weapon, given you can drive it to the track and run faster tha most race cars. However, it's a pretty boring road car (you just can't use it on the street, to anything near its potential, and to be frank once you experience balls out R35 on the track, you'll never think you can have fun on the street again anyway). The C63 is a much more entertaining street car fwiw, but would be smashed by the R35 on the track.

Hope this helps

Edited by LSX-438

Yes, I second that. The R35 is not the best daily driver ( I drive my E63 AMG during the week more than the R35)

but if you are going to track the car regularly then the R35 is easily the best car you can buy for the money.

If you can afford it, the new 2011/2012 R35s are smoother as a daily than the 09/10 models. A few back to back

test drives will confirm that. A few small mods & they are a devastating weapon on street or track.

There are a lot of C63s on the market now so if you trade it on a new 2012 R35 your changeover is not going to be a

lot less than just keeping the C63 and buying a used R35 as a second car for trackwork/weekends.

Other thing to consider - depending on it's importance or not - is the attitude of the dealership.

Friend with a AMG C63 goes into Merc before a track day etc. They top up oils, give the car a once over etc all without issue (or charge). Same for another with an Audi RS5.

You won't catch Nissan doing these types of free 'value adds'.

Suppose it depends if you are keeping it stock-ish or not, and if you are going to do the work yourself, as to whether the above has any relevance.

Awesome, information. Thanks very much.

I have a second car ( that I use for the road).Not interested in a road car as I use my c63 mainly for that track now anyway.I have boosted it an everything, and the best I could get out of it was 1.49.79 at the creek. Only can reach around 220...

Yeah, I am getting the 2012 model , but test driving the 2011.

Also test driving a 2008 Porsche Turbo, so will be deciding between those... Well to honest, have already decided on the GTR pretty much.

Anyway, I guess I will be in touch with you guys going forward....

Other thing to consider - depending on it's importance or not - is the attitude of the dealership.

Friend with a AMG C63 goes into Merc before a track day etc. They top up oils, give the car a once over etc all without issue (or charge). Same for another with an Audi RS5.

You won't catch Nissan doing these types of free 'value adds'.

Suppose it depends if you are keeping it stock-ish or not, and if you are going to do the work yourself, as to whether the above has any relevance.

I was told by the Nissan dealership that if you want to track the car, you need them to check the fluids and have the wheel alignment adjusted, before and after. I don't believe there is a charge for that unless you need fresh fluids afterwards. Nissan doesn't discourage taking the car onto a track, I guess they figure you'll need additional servicing and parts sooner or later.

I don't daily drive mine and couldn't think of anything more boring than sitting and creeping along in peak hour traffic in it. However, there are plenty of roads around that give you an opportunity to enjoy the car in bursts, without having to track it. Each to their own I guess....

Yeah, I heard that as well.But to be honest, I have a tuner, which will be voiding some of my warranties.I am hoping as occured with the c63 , along as I keep my car in good order ensure that it is maintained Go see nissan befoe and after Try to make friends with the dealership service guys

the warranty hopefully will hold up ...Fingers and toes crossed !!!!

I guess I ain't buying the car to not take it to its limits, otherwise I might as well buy a Camry...lol

Can't wait... After I make my full decision..then comes adjustable rear wing... Carbon fibre parts ... Tyres/wheels/brakes ... And more ... $$$$ ... Never stops ... Hehehe

The GTR is an awesome car no doubt about but there's one thing it does faster then accelerate and that's depreciate! Anyone who thinks they can sell an 09ADM that's been tracked for over 100k is simply dreaming! There are a number of 09's for sale on carsales.com for just over 100K that have low KLM's on them, never seen a track day in their life and have been on sale for months. Dealers won't give you much over 80K for an 09 (which is nearly out of warranty) as a trade because they know they can't shift them. I'm currently looking for an 09 but I obviously I won't touch one that's been tracked with a barge pole and certainly won't be paying over a 100k! As I said great car but be prepared for hit if you buy a new one!

Edited by GT-R OZ

the depreciation of the gtr isnt only to do with the car, but more to do with the current luxury (read high priced) used car market

look at what you can buy E92 M3s for now......well under 100k and they were in the same 180k+ bracket new as well

i do agree tracked examples always go for far less. if i was buying a gtr to track, id buy a used one for sure

Yeah, pretty painful selling a car in AUS anyway.My C63 will Ony fetch around 85 at a dealer. Regardless of tracking or not.I am probably the only guy that will be putting his car as is on carsales, and hoping for an enthusiast..!!

Funny thing is that I have been sold cars previously that have said to be one ownered...never tracked..., and 3 months later, I am kicking myself..

Just want to know that I can sell it... And the answer does not sound good.Are GTR's selling at all?

I will have to take what you have said into consideration...

Anyway, tomorrow and sat I have the 2 test drives...

I might go either way now...

Thanks for the honesty!!

Edited by mclrn

thats right ...

My 63 car has had more services then a normal car.

It also produces 336Kw at the rear wheels, has adjustable suspension, carbon air filter, Pulley, New LSD... Chipped..

What else would you want.. better then spending 25K to do it yourself...

Anyway, let see how it goes... hopefully there are other people who think like myself...

otherwise , will have to strip it back.. which would be disappointing..

Guys that track their cars look after them much more than a guy that daily drives them.

correct gtr fluid maintenance after each outing? sure if he/she has deep pockets

mechanically? faster degradation of components, you don't replace clutches, diffs, box's, suspension bushes at a dealer service

visually? stone chips and gravel rash everywhere, very tired looking

i get invited to alot of manufacture track days from all the big brands, and these brand new cars always look trashed after a few days. i always think to myself who's going to buy them

Edited by domino_z

Lol: Can I ask why!

I think Domino sums it up pretty well! Anyway I'm not looking for a car that's been daily driven either. I'm looking for one that's been a garage queen and trust me there are plenty out there! Some people seem to think these cars will hold their value if they put 5,000KLM's per year on them and leave in the garage lol! Doh!

Edited by GT-R OZ

It is funny how the original JDMs actually held price better then the Aussie Delivered.

I did a great deal on My 08 Gun metallic R35 for only $125,000. Then tuned it, tracked it, did 20000km mainly up in the Adelaide hills

with it, then sold it last year for $115,000.

I did pretty well with my new 2011 Blue R35, saved over $20000 off new price with only 800kms on it (bought it from Lamborghini Sydney

after a baller traded it in on new Superleggera) but after only 6 months it is still worth $20000 less again if I had to sell it today.

Which I wont because I totally & absolutley LOVE this car.

Even way back in 2002, I bought the first EVO VII in the country ( a bright yellow one with carbon bonnet that was on cover of SPEED)

for $74,000. Cained it, raced it (even on dirt once!) did heaps of hills driving - over 10000km, then sold it for $73,000!

The next year I bought a Aussie delivered EVO VIII and lost $20000 on it within 18 months when I got bored with it!

I suppose, at the end of the day, if you want to PLAY you have to PAY.............

I was told by the Nissan dealership that if you want to track the car, you need them to check the fluids and have the wheel alignment adjusted, before and after. I don't believe there is a charge for that unless you need fresh fluids afterwards. Nissan doesn't discourage taking the car onto a track, I guess they figure you'll need additional servicing and parts sooner or later.

I don't daily drive mine and couldn't think of anything more boring than sitting and creeping along in peak hour traffic in it. However, there are plenty of roads around that give you an opportunity to enjoy the car in bursts, without having to track it. Each to their own I guess....

From memory, Nissan does require you to have before/after services if you decide to track the car in order to keep it under warranty. And this comes with a price tag of $1000 (from memory....... )

From memory, Nissan does require you to have before/after services if you decide to track the car in order to keep it under warranty. And this comes with a price tag of $1000 (from memory....... )

You are right about them charging for the services, my dealer quoted $203 before and $203 after the track day.

Apart from changing the wheel alignment, they also reduce fluid levels prior to and top them back up afterwards. Brakes, tyres etc are also checked in both services.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...