Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I was detailing my girlfriends car today and noticed that there is a scratch (around 10 cm long) in her glass.

Wondering how to remove scratches from glass? It is not very deep, but is a noticable scratch. It is not a crack.

Fine grade wet and dry sandpaper? Cutting compound / buffer?

Dont know if it matters, but the car is an S15 and its her front windscreen.

If anyone knows, any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers

Edited by iwanta34gtr

Hi ,

If your water marks are on the surface of the glass you can remove them using a product by CarPro called Ceriglass. This a Cerium Oxide based product mixed with a nano polish to allow it to work by machine or with the applicator in the kit.

I have removed not only water marks but seriously deep windscreen wiper scratches on glass with this and a polisher. Definitely worth a try.

Click Here for more info.

Thanks mate.

I just gave it a try with 2000 grit wet and dry, then hit it with ultimate compound and a buffer as a 'lets hope' - but it didnt make too much of a difference unfortunately.

Brought it out a bit better but taking a look - its pretty deep, will organise to have a pro window guy come and take a look at it tomorrow.

Just called Obrien out of curiosity, they have a 24/7 line.

They advise that they dont do windscreen scratch repair.

Is this the norm? If there is a scratch, the windscreen has to be replaced?

Edited by iwanta34gtr

Thanks Eugene, appreciate the advice.

Getting some quotes for a replacement windshield. They vary though - Obrien is $860, and Novus Auto Glass (who have done work for me before) have quoted $320.

Only thing im thinking now is, will they be able to reuse the factory rubbers / seals? If it makes sense, on the sides down the bottom of the windscreen they raise up a bit - i noticed on my mates R33 when they repalced his windscreen they replaced the seals and they are a bit different / flat.

Will have to do more research.

Update for anyone that is interested for future reference.

Spoke with a company today that polishes glass, they advised that it would be better to replace the windshield because of the position of the scratch - and it is in direct line of sight.

If it was further polished, the scratch would come out but the area would become distorted.

So today, got a replacement windscreen installed, and the original seal was able to be reused. The guy was very careful removing it, so it did not split or tear.

Very happy.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 6 months later...

Hey Tez,

I had a chat to Novus about their polishing services before I got a new one installed. It will depend exactly where the scratch is as to whether its worth getting them to buff it out. This is because the glass will loose its clarity in the area.

If it is an important viewing area it is not recommended. Also not too friendly too your wallet for a result which can not be confirmed for success until after the event / payment.

That being said, before replacing I gave it a go myself by wet sanding the glass with fine grade sandpapers and then polishing with a mothers powerball and a heavy compound.

Looked 1000X better than having a deep scratch and was very passable, but to me - was not perfect when I stared at it.

Cheap DIY if anyone wants to give it a go before replacing (and things cant get any worse).

whats the turn around time like? do they have the glass ready to go or does it need to be made up?

I'm thinking of filling out some stone chips and wiper scratches but don't want to spend a little close to $100 and get a shabby result.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...