Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Morning.

r33 gtst series 1

splitfire coils

stock injectors

7's gapped at 1 or .9

This morning when i turned my car on i had terrible idle, i currently have a very mild miss on warm idle and always have, but this morning, and only this morning (so far) it just decided to idle shit, the motor was rocking and you could feel it through the car, i wouldn't say it was a crippling rocking, but enough to shake the motor and car.

The rocking was a perfectly sequential fast paced rock, as apposed to an occasional light miss from the motor. it felt like it was missing every revolution and about 6-8 times a second on startup idle (1200-1500rpm) it almost felt as if you had washed the engine and a bit of water went into the valley, and you get that miss that it does.

I should note that the idle was starting to smooth out as the car was on, but turned it off before it was fully gone.

My guess is an injector is blocked? or a spark plug fault? but its weird that this didnt happen yesterday when i used the car. Could this be in relation to my usual very mild occasional miss that i get normally?

Ive tried to give as much info as possible, if i've missed anything let me know.

Cheers guise

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/389746-terrible-start-up-idle-rocking/
Share on other sites

check your plugs first man... i'm guessing that they are gone.

did you drive it at all? and if so did the problem rectify itself after a while?

I just reversed the car across the road, and i think the idle was starting to smooth out after about 30 secs to a minute, but didnt want to leave it running, since i thought it might be leaning out on a cylinder or something.

I will check the plugs.

i went out just now and the idle was fine, but id still like to know what happened, as i assume this can happen again.

Edited by ClutchBurndout-:(

Those misses you say you get when warm are not misses, they are lean pops. They don't happen on idle due to the richness that the car runs to warm the engine up. If you drive your car when its in its cold state and switch it off soon after, the unburnt fuel can quickly foul old plugs. Ive had mornings where my car will start and misfire its face off. Change the plugs and bam its back to normal. My car was running rich all over the place so after I fixed that it didn't happen.

Those misses you say you get when warm are not misses, they are lean pops. They don't happen on idle due to the richness that the car runs to warm the engine up. If you drive your car when its in its cold state and switch it off soon after, the unburnt fuel can quickly foul old plugs. Ive had mornings where my car will start and misfire its face off. Change the plugs and bam its back to normal. My car was running rich all over the place so after I fixed that it didn't happen.

lean pops you say? not on idle? this ONLY happens on idle, how do i fix the lean pops on idle? checking for fouled plugs? what plugs will solve this?

i was very low on fuel yesterday, but filled up yesterday and drove another 30mins home on new fuel, that wouldnt affect it this morning?

so which plugs to use, some are saying BCPR7ES and some are saying BKR6ES?

  • 4 months later...

7's are too cold for your application. Go down a heat range of 6. If the plugs can't get warm enough to it's operating temperature it can't burn off the excess carbon on the plug to clean itself and foul. Assuming your still running stock injectors your not putting out big power and 7's are too cold.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...