Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys

i was just wonderin whether or not with the stock BOV on the R33 you can pull the plumb back hose off and make it atmospheric. does this cause any problems??? and does it work better, not better, works the same, just makes a louder noise. what?? can u please email me to tell me, thanks alot.

email is: [email protected]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39036-stock-r33-bov/
Share on other sites

Godfather - I'm guessing the stalling is for two reasons -

1. runs rich because AFM will read higher than actual air into engine when BOV vents;

2. stock BOV leaks on boost (see thread titled "BOV mod" or something similar...) causing excessively rich.

I have a rice-boy-spec vent to atmosphere - It idles OK, stalls about once a week - After market management will fix that.

lbfalcon - don't know what you are talking about mate... you will not shatter your turbo because there is no airflow back to the turbo. I think you have confused having no BOV, the air feeding back to the turbo through the compressor will have long term damaging effects on the blades and bearings.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39036-stock-r33-bov/#findComment-792405
Share on other sites

the stock bov does not leak on boost, it leaks a tiny little bit of air around 0 pressure to make the transition on and off boost smoother.

The BOV mod is nothing special it does nothing for power. I tried it and I must say leaving it alone is the best idea.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39036-stock-r33-bov/#findComment-793141
Share on other sites

Ronin - i think i know what ure referring too... seems familiar.. something abt placing a small screw on one of the small holes at the bottom of the bov.. will look it up
Don't use a screw, use the little black lid bit out of the top of an old style BIC Biro. Does the same job, fits the hole like it's made for it, and can be removed without having buggered up the OEM BOV :D
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39036-stock-r33-bov/#findComment-795152
Share on other sites

I wonder if a stock bov with the screw mod vented to atmo would idle better seeing as it wouldnt be leaking and causing afr probs?? Just a thaught..

I know a completly stock one will contiuously stall when vented to atmo.

My stokies got the little mod might vent it to atmo and see how it goes just for curiositys sake, however i dont know why youde want it venting to atmo considering all the negative sides to it, and if your into the noise the stockie bov plumbed is pretty loud when youve got a pod filter, well mine is anyway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39036-stock-r33-bov/#findComment-796593
Share on other sites

I wonder if a stock bov with the screw mod vented to atmo would idle better seeing as it wouldnt be leaking and causing afr probs?? Just a thaught..
In my case it made my idle rougher and caused minor surges, but this was plumbed back...

I originally had an older style Turbosmart Type II BOV which caused a rough idle and surging.

I went back to the factory BOV and the rough idle and surging went away completely, however as already mentioned it just wasnt as snappy.

So I did the screw mod, there was a noticable difference, but it idled a little rough and was surging again but not as bad.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39036-stock-r33-bov/#findComment-797077
Share on other sites

the screw won't help your cause with it venting to atmo, that little hole just does exactly what rev210 says, smoothes out the transition from off-on boost. blocking it just stops that from smoothing out.

Ok, wouldn't that little leak be just like if you had a leak in your manifold (when the stock bov is venting to atmo of course) and a leak in your manifold would cause rough/no ide wouldn't it?

I just recon this little leak is why the stock bov doesnt idle when vented to atmo and most other aftermarket ones do because they dont have that little leak.

Dont get me wrong im all for the stockie being plumbed back and dont know why anyone would want it venting to atmo. My mate tried to tell me once that venting to atmo was better cause the hot already compressed air went back infront of the turbo again with a plumb back, i dont recon this is really true cause when air drops in pressure it drops in temp aswell so theoretically it would go back at the same temp as it came in, accept of course that the intercooler has already taken some heat out so maybe the air would go back at a lower temp than it came in? would this make plumbacks better??

Also i can see some good in blocking off the hole, yes it may stop the smoothing out as may people have said thats why nissan put it there but surly the turbo would not be working as hard to make the same boost?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39036-stock-r33-bov/#findComment-797227
Share on other sites

the stock bov does not leak on boost, it leaks a tiny little bit of air around 0 pressure to make the transition on and off boost smoother.

The BOV mod is nothing special it does nothing for power. I tried it and I must say leaving it alone is the best idea.

How does air leak at zero pressure?? i always thaught you needed a difference in pressure to get movment. anyhow i know for a fact it does leak under pressure cause i blew on it and like alot of other peolpe found out when they tried this it bypassed air (leaked), aparrently a human being can generate almost 2 psi with there mouth i found the harder i blew the more it leaked. this would mean it leaks under pressure wouldnt it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39036-stock-r33-bov/#findComment-797278
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I can say that yes the stock bov vents on spool when I had it venting to atmosphere, I rigged up a really dodgy bent piece of metal which then bent out to vent the air, but I found that having something blocking it almost stopped the stalling on idle, I found this out by holding my hand over where the air vents and it idled smooth as silk, once I unblocked it, BAM rough idle?

I have no friggin idea what this means and am not a mechanic, I will be taking pics later on before I reattach the plumb back just to prove how DODGY it was :(, sick of just before boost hearing a constant whoosh from the bov and thinking of all that power being lost :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39036-stock-r33-bov/#findComment-886353
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
    • To be fair it's the other way around. 300kw is boring in a modern Golf or BMW. They are so competent / well-engineered / devoid of emotion that you have to go stupid fast to feel anything. Whereas the <300kw RB still makes all the right noises and it feels good to drive. Can pull off at the lights with the turbo whooshing and the blow-off pssshing and feel like the coolest kid on the block. Just don't look to the side where you'll see the bored housewifes in their shitbox Yaris/Corolla/Camry that kept up because you didn't go fast at all
    • 300kW is so boring in a Skyline, you'll get spanked by someone's mum's Golf with Alibaba pipes, and an email tune.
×
×
  • Create New...