Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Last night i went out for a run in the 32gtr Launched in first. then boosted up to 180,

as soon as i let off a loud ticking/pinging sound was coming out from the engine,

I turned it off at a mates and let it cool down, started back up but only made the sound when free reving above 3000 RPM

Took off to take it home and under load it wouldnt make the sound or backing off, only when in between load and off load if that makes sense (cruising), by the time i got home the ticking/knocking had worsened and was doing it at idle.

any ideas? i'h hoping its not a big end as it sound like is coming from the top? (car still drives/boosts and revs fine.

Regards Jimmi

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390568-rb26-nasty-knocking/
Share on other sites

It could be anything. I'm going to say noisy lifters. If you had a big end spun, you would know. It would sound more like a hammer on your block. If its a light tap, knocking sound, its probably head related. I'd put some new oil in it and see what it does. If the problem gets worse, louder, constant etc it may well and truly be a big end or some other thing at the bottom.

I experienced the exact same sound about 4 weeks ago. Turns out i spun no.5 bearing. Fairly similar situation too, mine was caused by oil starvation.. Not good.

Hopefully you have better luck than i did. Take it to a mechanic, or get one to come to you..

Best of luck mate.

id say the luanch then full throttle all the way to 180 is pretty much a give away that the cause of the problem was oil starvation

What i wanna know is

-what power are u running?

-what engine mods do u have and do u run a baffle or modified sump?

-do you overfill your sump?

Hi guys,

Car is a Late 1993,

Power FC

Twin Nismo t28's

Tune

Standard Injectors,

Running 17psi At the time

Standard Sump not overfilled.

Air Temp at the time roughly 18-20 C

Roughly 355rwhp

Oh and 72,000kms,

Edited by GTRSOL

Did i say that the head flooded with oil?

how would the head flood with oil if the oil pick up isnt picking any up

If you are pulling hard G's for an exteneded period of time, which is entirly possible in a GTR that performs a hard launch then is full throttle all the way to 180kms, then you can starve the engine of oil as the oil is not near the pick up...

insane?.. i think not

Did i say that the head flooded with oil?

how would the head flood with oil if the oil pick up isnt picking any up

If you are pulling hard G's for an exteneded period of time, which is entirly possible in a GTR that performs a hard launch then is full throttle all the way to 180kms, then you can starve the engine of oil as the oil is not near the pick up...

insane?.. i think not

I wasn't going against what you said, I just assumed you were probably implying that any useable oil would have been flooded into the head! Ive read that it doesn't take very long at all on some high rpm to fill the head up with pretty much all useable oil in the sump.

Pulling enough G's and maintaining that in a straight line to starve the engine of oil.... that is crazy shit insane! Its amazing to see these oil control issues evident in skylines. They are all very possible situations and you would think Nissan would have thought of ways to prevent this stuff from happening.

Also those KM readings, 72000km.......................................................................................................................... nah.

Is it a bad thing to overfill your sump? It takes me some good time to fill up my car and get it exactly on the right mark on the dip stick. I over filled it once and I let some oil out because I read it can do bad things but I didn't see how or why...

Edited by SargeRX8

Did i say that the head flooded with oil?

how would the head flood with oil if the oil pick up isnt picking any up

If you are pulling hard G's for an exteneded period of time, which is entirly possible in a GTR that performs a hard launch then is full throttle all the way to 180kms, then you can starve the engine of oil as the oil is not near the pick up...

insane?.. i think not

So, if the oil is not in the sump, where is it?

How the could the head flood with oil? I would have though it was obvious that this would happen before the sump is empty.

sorry to hear mate

so is it a good idea to overfill 26's with oil??

Yes. For track work, many fill the the bottom of the top bump on the dipstick. So about a cm above the full of the hatched area.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...