I Hate Smoke.

[scr33min']

Ok so at idle im getting a bit of smoke, nothing major but a constant little puff. kinda like condensation, but its always there.

But, as soon as i let the car idle after a drive and hit boost, it starts to really smoke. it never did this at all untill a few days ago.

its oil smoke, i know that because its blue and smells of oil. What im worried about is that it could be the turbo oil seals gone, and i got quoted $800 for a turbo overhaul for a Trust TD07. I can get the head reconditioned for half that price, getting new valve seals if they are the problem.

What I noticed the other day though is a oil leek from the top oil feed to the turbo which looks like its been there for a few days (about the same time since this problem has started), could this be part of the problem, or even better the problem itself (but i doubt it)?

the problem is that im not actually near the car untill next week, so im trying to do as much research into this as i can so that i can get straight into what the suspected problem when i can.

Could it be the turbo oil seals, the turbo lines blocked or leaking (feed or return) or the valve seals leaking?

any info into this would be greatly appreciated as I want to get straight into this asap.

cheers

oh, the engine is an FJ20 if that helps. Out of a DR30

[045HOW]

Does it smoke up when hitting boost?

[scr33min']

Nope. No smoke at all while cruising around or on boost

[HYBR3D]

I thought blue smoke was oil going past your seals, valves piston rings etc and white smoke was blown turbo seals or failing turbo?

Edited February 10, 2012 by HYBR3D

[045HOW]

I thought blue smoke was oil going past your seals, valves piston rings etc and white smoke was blown turbo seals or failing turbo?

I had white smoke from f**ked piston ring on cylinder 6 on my old RB25DET.

[HYBR3D]

I was so sure it was the other way around, quick google search shows that white smoke is usually caused from rad coolant entering the engine or turbo getting burnt off.

[scr33min']

ok so I changed the oil filter and did and oil change and the smoke was reduced a bit. Maybe it just had bad oil in it or the wrong oil?

[045HOW]

White smoke is not meant to be coming out of your exhaust at all.

[jhjones]

Compression test.

[HYBR3D]

Using the wrong oil can cause oil consumption and blue smoke. fresh engines have good compression, and fully synthetic oil is good to use. where as more older engines that are a bit tired, thinner fully synthetic oil can get past the valves and seals and you get oil consumption and blue smoke. Check what oil you are using and its viscosity. You could try using semi synthetic if you are not already.

And yes get a compression test.

This exact thing happened to me in one of my evos in the past.

Edited February 11, 2012 by HYBR3D

[scr33min']

Ok I'll do a compression test later on tonight.Imusing 20W50 mineral oil, as that's what everyone recommends because of the engines age. I have no idea what oil was in it originally

[scotty nm35]

Ok I'll do a compression test later on tonight.Imusing 20W50 mineral oil, as that's what everyone recommends because of the engines age. I have no idea what oil was in it originally

I would be trying a 10w40 semi synth, unless the engine is built with loose tolerances.

White smoke is usually coolant leaking into the cylinders, perhaps the head gasket is gone or the turbo is leaking internally? Compression test time.

[scr33min']

Would I get any benefits going to that oil though?I guess headgasket could be a possibility, but car still pulls hard and there's no oil in the water or water in the oil.Couldn't be the turbo leaking water as its only oil cooled. I dont know if I've mentioned but it's s trust td07

[SargeRX8]

Are you loosing oil or are you loosing coolant?

Edited February 12, 2012 by SargeRX8

[scr33min']

Oil. Never mentioned anything about coolant. Ok so here is what I got from the compression test: #1 - 155. #2 - 150. #3 - 150. #4 - 150.

Edited February 12, 2012 by scr33min'

[SargeRX8]

Looks like even and consistent enough comp results. Looks like your problem may well and truly be your turbo.

[scr33min']

thanks for your help man.

Yeah all signs are pointing towards that. Unfortunately its the most expensive to fix out of the suspected problems

[SargeRX8]

Why not buy the seal kit and try DIY? Assuming your shaft, wheels and what not are fine, I have read of people DIY rebuilding their turbos due to leaky seals.

[scr33min']

You can do that yourself? I thought that it had to be balanced and everything and ripping it apart might put it slightly out of balance?

[SargeRX8]

Seals yes, you balance the wheels to shaft which you don't do because yours are fine.

Edited February 13, 2012 by SargeRX8