Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so i want to know if there is any difference between the Nissan skyline GTR r34 and the R34 gt-t/gt in the raw body size, meaning like if i stripped both of them apart would there be any difference in the size's of the body, or did nissan use the same chassis and just put genuine GTR parts into one chassis please help me thank you

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/391378-some-one-please-help-me-urgent/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I have searched high and low through the whole internet trying to find answers on this, but i still cannot find any answers that i am looking for, some please give me some confirmation on this, thank you

The chassis rails sit in the same position, but the rear and front guards are pumped to fit wider wheels. While the front guards are easily changed over, the rear means that is very difficult to match the track of a GT-R. There are blister kits available but involve making very permanent mods (damage) to a gt-t chassis.

So Would it be possible to strip the whole GT-t and rewire it and fit it with ALL genuine GTR parts onto the gt-t as if it was a GTR ?

yes IF you had a GTS4 in the same chassis. if you are thinking of buying (or have) a GTR34 and dropping all of it into a GTT then the front drive system will hang you. the chassis rails ARE DIFFERENT in the front of the car. there are subtle tweaks in the floor as well.

in my case I have GTR electricals in a GTS4 R32 chassis and IF I wanted to do a FULL swap it would be the entire front end swap AND new inner/outer rear guards as well. swapping the outer panels wont work.

what EXACTLY are you trying to do?

Ok ok I have A Gt-t r34, and i want to strip it completely of EVERYTHING and put all genuine GTR parts into it except for the drive train, leave that at rwd, but everything else make it as GTR as possible

Ok ok I have A Gt-t r34, and i want to strip it completely of EVERYTHING and put all genuine GTR parts into it except for the drive train, leave that at rwd, but everything else make it as GTR as possible

Mate, here's my last piece of advice.

I suggest you start collecting GTR body parts now before you do the conversion. Yes, everything can be translated across with fabrication and custom body work.

Get the shell of a GTR and then transfer it across and you will notice the difference which will require custom work.

It will be a BIG project, so the question is why don't you just save up a bit longer and buy a GTR?

Mate, here's my last piece of advice.

I suggest you start collecting GTR body parts now before you do the conversion. Yes, everything can be translated across with fabrication and custom body work.

Get the shell of a GTR and then transfer it across and you will notice the difference which will require custom work.

It will be a BIG project, so the question is why don't you just save up a bit longer and buy a GTR?

beat me to it.

to put this into perspective - the rear guards are well over $1k each just to get the track/look right.

save your money and buy a GTR. easier. if you are looking for hectic rear skids buy a commodore :P the GTR is 4wd for a reason.

Bro, you're the first person in the whole wide world that prefers a RWD over a AWD but yet want his car to look like A GTR.

Do you want to go all-out or just want GTR bodykit items? Check this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ErMIsPSzxlc

Mate, with $$$ anything is possible.

i wanted to make it look ( exterior) exactly like a GTR in the video i could easly tell that wasnt a true GTR, the front bumper is different, and also, the drivetrain, would it be possible to swap the GT-t one and putting it into a GTR ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...