Jump to content
SAU Community

Some One Please Help Me Urgent!

Play_it_Hard
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

adamskill Mentor

adamskill

Posted
Posted

Black BLACK!

Haha. Gtr -> rwd, easy

Gtt-> gtr, so not worth the hassle.

And why do you personally not like awd? Or did you drive a evo and think "nah awd is not for me".

Gtr is a different type of awd. Just saying.

mate, dont get too worked up about the whole thing

without being too harsh on the OP, lets be 100% honest with our selves here, we ALL know that this guy IS NOT going too spend the money on converting his gt-t into a gtr look-a-like. Nor is he going to buy a r34 gtr, just to turn it rwd.

this is an internet based forum where ALOT of people say things they really dont mean.

Now i could be completely wrong, and OP has thousands and thousands of dollars spare to spend on modifying a 12 year old gt-t in such an extreme way, for no real apparent gain, then good luck.

Miguelone Grand Master

Miguelone

Posted
Posted

GTR to rwd is easy enough, drop front driveshafts, hack front diff off sump, remove attessa computers etc and chuck in an RB25 box. But I don't see the point.

Have you driven an R and then come to the decision that you don't like the AWD or have you just gone, "Yep the GTT is rwd I like it" and not done any research into how the R actually handles.

I haven't driven a 34R but I have driven a 33R and whilst the 4wd and rwd feel completely different it is a great handling package. Feels a bit heavier in the front but it feels a lot more balanced and smooth. If you want your GT-T to run an rb26 then do that and save the coin on everything else. otherwise drive an R if you haven't already and see if you really do dislike the AWD as much as you think you do.

Another thing to consider, as well as the guards being pumped out and the suspension being mostly the same you will have to swap rear hubs from loop type suspension to fork type and LCA's etc are different to provide you with the added 20mm rear track. Front track however is the same.

Iron Chef Grand Master

Iron Chef

Posted
Posted

soooooooooo yes, no, i need a black or white answer

I like this guy.

With such a great title, I was expecting a thread subtitle along the lines of "just ran over a homeless guy - should I call the cops?" or "I just caught my sister in bed with my mom"...very disappointed...

Play_it_Hard Rookie

Play_it_Hard

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok great stuff here, and also, the money situation isnt a concern, also if i was to stick to the GT-t and i got all original GTR body kit, side skirts bonnet rear left and right quarter pannels front and rear bumper the lot, would it be a hassle to fit onto the gt-t, thank you for your patience people, i greatly appreciate it

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

Ok great stuff here, and also, the money situation isnt a concern, also if i was to stick to the GT-t and i got all original GTR body kit, side skirts bonnet rear left and right quarter pannels front and rear bumper the lot, would it be a hassle to fit onto the gt-t, thank you for your patience people, i greatly appreciate it

I smell a troll..

I answered the question a few posts back with reference to a R32. same idea.

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

Ok great stuff here, and also, the money situation isnt a concern, also if i was to stick to the GT-t and i got all original GTR body kit, side skirts bonnet rear left and right quarter pannels front and rear bumper the lot, would it be a hassle to fit onto the gt-t, thank you for your patience people, i greatly appreciate it

also if money is not a concern -buy a R35. that will pull the chicks and get you thrown in jail at the same time.

if you were doing a resto like I am then I could POSSIBLY see your point. at the moment I see a kid and dreams.

put up or shut up :)

adamskill Mentor

adamskill

Posted
Posted

also if money is not a concern -buy a R35. that will pull the chicks and get you thrown in jail at the same time.

if you were doing a resto like I am then I could POSSIBLY see your point. at the moment I see a kid and dreams.

put up or shut up :)

THIS

/Thread.

JDM34 Collaborator

JDM34

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yes, the AWD system can be disabled. I wouldn't waste the time, effort and money doing such a costly conversion.

>Buy R34 GTR

>Disable the AWD system

>??????

>Profit!

Edited by JDM34

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...