Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all just wanted to get some info about exhausts whats a good set up?...ive got an r32 GTR with 280kw ive currently got a stock exhaust I assume for the sound and what not..im after somthing pretty loud but not straight pipe loud and good flow... What size pipe would be best eg dumps??,front?? So forth blah blah

Any info would be greatly appreciated :thumbsup:

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Bigger is better for power but obviously you need to quieten it down for the street, and it would depend how low you are as to what size pipe would fit under the car.

There are plenty of 3 or 3.5 inch cat backs available in the for sale section, or you can get me or someone else to make you a full system if you want custom. PM me if you want me to organise a quote or just to drop around for a chat seeing as you're local. :thumbsup:

I've got 34 gtr dumps, and planning on a 3.5 inch custom. Go big, but get proper mufflers, stuffed with rockwool not fibreglass like the jap ones

what front pipes you going?

i got a r32 rb20det, thinking of doing a 3" , no cat, and a chambered? or non chambered? resonator in the middle then a straight jasma muffler. that any good?mellow.gif

im confused are you asking me if that set up is acceptable or is your input to the thread good haha...if your asking if the exhaust is good I have no idea about exhausts but it should be sweet for an rb20 :turned:

then a straight jasma muffler. that any good?mellow.gif

JASMA is a certification meaning the product is street legal in japan. thumbsup.gif

Japanese Automotive Sports Muffler Association (JASMA)

You can tell the brand of exhaust from the 3 digit code on the plate:

Akiyure Inc. 047

Apekusera Inc. 048

Iida Inc. 130

Ikeda industry 003

A tea sea international Japan Inc. 074

Etching k s Inc. 051

Ebansupuranningu asuretsuku division 129

M-TEC Inc. 002

Otoekuze Inc. 120

Automatic backs seven Inc. 097

Ovuareshingupurodakutsu Inc. 124

Katsu Inc. 088

Car land 119

Kind technostructure Inc. 115

Kakimotoreshingu Inc. 017

Garcon division 114

Can tile office 113

5ZIGEN international Inc. 005

Sun automobile industry Inc. 076

Gee earl Inc. 012

Jieiruto Inc. 013

Gee piece Potts Inc. 125

Jiyaosu Inc. 067

Starting line Inc. 069

Spoon Inc. 044

Possession the Suruga Seiki Inc. 106

Zero sports Inc. 100

Tanabe Inc. 026

Taniguchi Inc. 035

Takeoff Inc. 004

Top line Inc. 110

Trust Inc. 006

Knight sport Inc. 019

Huaburesu Inc. 111

Fujita engineering Inc. 061

Rattan ***353;â engineering and research industry Inc. 001

Free way Inc. 123

Buritsutsu Inc. 021

Hoshinoinparu Inc. 037

HONDA twin cam Inc. 011

Mainzuueibu Inc. 038

Makishimuwakusu Inc. 045

Pine Shaw Inc. 008

Meiwa Inc. 041

Yajima industry Inc. 091

Yamato Inc. 122

Lucky automatic Inc. 126

Love lark Inc. 083

jasma cool info. i thought its a brand as well haha. i saw it had trust written on it.

with regards to the cat. i dont care if its legal or not.whistling.gif im looking for an optimal exhaust design flow. not too loud and not restrictive as well. how about a 3" straight deisgn no cats no mid mufflers, just a straight bellmouth muffler on the end? would that work? im only aiming around 280-300hp

anything straight will be pretty damn loud..but again i don't know much about exhaust i was actually hoping to get some info on it as well haha but yer you couldn't get much better flow then straight your neighbours will hate you as well

  • 2 weeks later...

Ideally no u don't want back pressure on a turbo system it can lead to higher exhaust gas temps etc but u don't want to big of an exhaust generally rule thumb work out what power u want and build exhaust to suit of u want 250hpatw build a 2.5inch system . If u want 300hpatw get a 3 " system

Hope that helps bud

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...