Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey troops,

Just wanted to let you know that these Xenon HID kits that are plug n play can be a real pain. Spent 5hrs today mucking with this sh!t.

Might be easy if in the first place if your engine bay isnt cramped with CAB, IC piping, Charcoal canister and to top it off a large oil catch can.

Started off I checked my driving lights and they're H1. So I buy a H1 kit off the forums.

1st issue. The globes you get dont fit the N1 Projector lights (H1). Useless unless you want to butcher the globe fittings. FFS.

So lucky enbough I have an early set of N1 Projector headlights (H3). SO I order a set of these and wait a week.

They show up so today I get up and around lunchtime start.

As my H3 N1's are on the shelf I fit everything up first and it's the right globes/fittings/wiring. Hurrah !

No worries. Take the blinkers out, start removing the headlights.

Bugger Cold Air Box has to come out. Charcoal canester, Intercooler piping off. Many dropped nuts, sockets - much cursing trying not to scratch new paint.

GTR grill off, Air diversion plate off.

Get the drivers side haedlights out, new ones hooked up - Wow Light. Finish putting it in. :thumbsup: YAY

Passenger side headlight out, N1 (H3) in. hooked up. NO LIGHT.

Bugger is it the globe?, change globes - Nup. Is it the wiring? Change wiring, Nup.

Mix and match doing a process of elimination. Put the old one back in - Nup.

Screwed around for the rest of the afternoon. No joy.

Put the Xenon (H3's) in the passenger fit it all up as I have to take the GTR to inline tomoz.

All IC piping back on and everything bolted backup..

Go to check the lights hoping a miracle has occured. Nothing on the passenger side.

Minor fustration shown to the cabin switch. High beam comes on passenger side. What ?

My problem is a farked headlight switch. I have 2 and both are farked.

Found this out after I take the cluster surround and cluster out. Grrrrr

RHDJapan - $230 delvierd and 2-3 week wait.

Coulda pulled the engine out in less time today !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/391477-xenon-h1-and-h3-lights-kit/
Share on other sites

Has to be. Run out of options thru elimination.

Plus the high beam only worked on the passenger side after a "tap" on the switch.

Next time I tried it and it wasn't working. So after another "TAP" it worked.

However the driving light - lowbeam - didn't come on at all.

Maybe it's not but it's my best guess :(

I took the easy way out and butched the globes lol. But I agree on how much of a pain it was. Was so much easier on my SS.

Another problem could be a fuse blown maybe. As the fuses run differently off the high and low beams.

Hmmmm - "As the fuses run differently off the high and low beams" Tell me more.

I put the 20amp fuses in the Engine bay fuse box for RH/LH headlights.

IS there any else I dont know of.

I checked the in cabin fuse box but no Headlights in there marked on the card..

If the ones in the engine bay are ok, then I think there is a light fuse under the dash but that was in my 1990 pulsar, don't know about the gtr. Otherwise if the globes aren't blown and the wiring checks out, its the switch. Start from the globe and work back from there.

If all that doesn't work, the a wire could be earthing out somewhere. Got to love electronics lol.

There's a big brown relay switch in the engine bay and the switch on the dash.

Parker works on passenger side and occassionaly highbeam when you tap the cabin switch a little. It's just the low beam (driving) that's never come on.

Tried 2 globes, and the old unit so not the globes. Also tried the original and 2 other wiring and balasts off xenon both kits.

So I'll try a new light switch on the cluster surround and brown relay switch in the engine bay.

I'll do the engine bay one first as it will be cheaper and easier.

PS. I looked at the switch, played with contacts and used WD40. Feels solid, no rattle but I cant dissasemble it.

Good idea, always best to start with the easy stuff first. If the relay is fine then I suggest to borrow a working which from another car and test it. Even though you can't rip it apart, doesn't mean something inside isn't playing up.

I'd get someone with the same car that is working, and work off that.

I only had to cut the black round screw on covers with a hole, and put the rubber grommit in, but that is on my R33... And only did the low beams.. Coulda done high too, but didnt want 2 sets of balists...

I had to unscrew the fuse box and radiator overflow, but nothing too bad....

Really sux bout all the other headaches you had though!

Edited by J'son
  • 4 weeks later...

In other great news got the H3 HID kit working, both drivers / passengers.

I'll mod my H1 set of headlights for use down the track.

Turns out I had a broken light switch (x2) on the dash.

Nissan shoulda done a RECALL, you bastards!

So the newie from RHDJapan arrived last week and put it in this morn - Now it's all Good. Thank fark.

Nick - thanks for your kind offer mate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...