Jump to content
SAU Community

1/4 Mile times and/or RWKW with Automatic R33 GTS25t

strutto

By strutto,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

the dual stage in the r33 is 7psi after 4500rpm, same rpm level when vvt timing turns off.

this is controlled by the ecu and it grounds wire # 25 on the ecu pin out when u go above 4500 rpm which opens the valve to run 7psi.

i believe (again believe) this is regardless of auto / manual

you could if you wanted to break this ground and permentatly ground the wire yourself to somewhere in the engine bay, that way the valve is always open and you run 7psi all the time, regardless of rpm. im not sure on other implactions from doing this, but it should be fine.

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Fly_With_Sky Rising Star

Fly_With_Sky

Posted
Posted

ok thnaks guys, oh this aint for my car by the way paulr33, i just heard today that a friend of mine said that this guys auto Line only runs 5 psi and i thought that theres something wrong wif his car as i thought they all run 7 as well. so looks like i was thinking right, anyway thanks again.

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

i dont think there is a massive differnece between auto and manual when you are comparing dyno output. they should be the same or similar as they will both have similar torque in 4th gear or high in the auto. its mainly 0 to 100 and 1/4 where you will see the auto be a bit behind due to lower rpm shifting and different cogs / ratios (i think)

strutto: i have no idea. i guess in limp home mode (afm broken) it wouldn't ground it, not sure what other events it would consider before not ground it. i've permenantly grounded mine and it runs 7psi non stop, works fine so far. has been for week and a half now. it looks like now (since runnning 7psi all the time) im getting better fuel economy as stupid and random as it sounds, no idea how or why, just seems like that. could be a big concidence (most likely)

  • 2 years later...
SoFreshSoClean Proficient

SoFreshSoClean

Posted
Posted

My S2 R33 auto did a 15.0 according to my mates G-meter thingy. Thats with full running gear including sub in the boot, plus I forgot to turn the aircon off :P

The only mod I have is a pod filter!

BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
Posted

Not sure why you are being told to change pump and reg? Upgrade pump and leave the reg.

i spose it on the limit havnt had any problems yet but my tuner told me the next thing would be to peplace fuel pump and fit a preasure reg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Butters
      R34 GTR Speedo Drive , sensor type ?

      By Butters · Posted

      Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...