Jump to content
SAU Community

Flange Adaptor

Co-stan-za

By Co-stan-za,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Co-stan-za Rookie

Co-stan-za

Posted
Posted

Hi allI have just purchased a new greddy td06 20g and i overlooked it had a trust Mitsubishi triangle shaped 3 bolt flange type. It is going on my 20det and I am now looking for a adaptor like the t3 to t25 ones you can get and vice versa but I can not find them on the market anymore. Does anyone know who has them as the turbo is going in next week and need this sorted ASAP..

All help would be much appreciated as I've been looking a few days now...Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/392174-flange-adaptor/
Share on other sites
Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

OR, for $150 just buy the back door Kando the Great housing that will bolt to your modded manifold! :)

Even a well made spacer will just be introducing more bolts and gaskets to leak and decrease clearance to the inner strut upgright

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbine-Housing-Kinugawa-TD06SL2-20G-T67-25G-T3-8cm-AR61-V-Band-External-/270900070544?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f12e70890#ht_2093wt_1270

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/392174-flange-adaptor/#findComment-6240665
Share on other sites
Co-stan-za Rookie

Co-stan-za

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1329541464[/url]' post='6240665']

OR, for $150 just buy the back door Kando the Great housing that will bolt to your modded manifold! :)

Even a well made spacer will just be introducing more bolts and gaskets to leak and decrease clearance to the inner strut upgright

http://www.ebay.com....#ht_2093wt_1270

That's what my mate said as well and for 150 its the same price of a custom spacer but didn't wana go that route unless I new I'd have Clarence issues with a adaptor. Has anyone else done this before or is just buying a t3 housing going to be the easiest way. rant.gif

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/392174-flange-adaptor/#findComment-6240751
Share on other sites
GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

Buy the kando housing to suit your turbo.

Pull the rear housing off and measure the diameter of the largest point of the wheel (exducer). Then buy the housing to suit which one you have.

61mm = TD06SL2

65mm = Standard TD06

67mm = TD06H

Kando the great has the housings you want for any of the above. Turn your nightmare into a near bolt on affair. Please read the kando thread for further detail.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/392174-flange-adaptor/#findComment-6241005
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Butters
      R34 GTR Speedo Drive , sensor type ?

      By Butters · Posted

      Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...