Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Car, engine, current modification level? What about getting your handling/braking sorted first? More important to be able to stop your car than go fast.

Otherwise, search in the dyno thread results for a power level you might want to achieve, then have a read of the mods required to do it. Then base your purchase by priority if you have to do it part by part.

ie; before getting a gt3076r, think about getting a ecu (afm or maf?), then exhaust, fmic if you feel the need, injectors, pump, etc.

^ thats hardly accurate anyway.

It was just ripped from the pages of this forum by someone who had no idea what he was ripping.

As if upping the boost to 10psi only gives 10rwkw - thats where MOST of the gains come from.

I think there are enough build threads these days not to warrant a guide to modding thread... R33s are probably the simplest car to mod, all you need is to buy a fairly unmolested example and the outcome is anyones game.

OP just try and keep your car as simple as possible. Power mods to a STOCK car as follows:

JJR bellmouth dump, 3" cat, 3" catback (feel free to go bigger)

JJR cross flow intercooler (feel free to get a better quality item)

Turbotech boost tap (feel free to use an EBC)

Walbro or Bosch fuel pump

Get it on a dyno and turn the boost up till just before you hit cut, should do 180rwkw on 9 or 10 psi.

Add turbo of choice (from highflow to GT30 style item or high mount and external gate, do the reading and pick your poison)

Add injectors/Z32 afm/ECU and tune to suit the turbo change

The described above could easily get you up to 350rwkw on pump fuel with the right turbo choice. If something fails, you tackle it individually to the above, like coilpacks. They are not NEEDED unless your stock ones fail, and then new stock items are usually best again.

Thats all you need to know, now you have to do lots of reading.

Goodluck,

I think there are enough build threads these days not to warrant a guide to modding thread... R33s are probably the simplest car to mod, all you need is to buy a fairly unmolested example and the outcome is anyones game.

OP just try and keep your car as simple as possible. Power mods to a STOCK car as follows:

JJR bellmouth dump, 3" cat, 3" catback (feel free to go bigger)

JJR cross flow intercooler (feel free to get a better quality item)

Turbotech boost tap (feel free to use an EBC)

Walbro or Bosch fuel pump

Get it on a dyno and turn the boost up till just before you hit cut, should do 180rwkw on 9 or 10 psi.

Add turbo of choice (from highflow to GT30 style item or high mount and external gate, do the reading and pick your poison)

Add injectors/Z32 afm/ECU and tune to suit the turbo change

The described above could easily get you up to 350rwkw on pump fuel with the right turbo choice. If something fails, you tackle it individually to the above, like coilpacks. They are not NEEDED unless your stock ones fail, and then new stock items are usually best again.

Thats all you need to know, now you have to do lots of reading.

Goodluck,

+1 to this.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But seriously, can we ask for the results of the "tip a bottle of metho into a nearly empty tank" experiment?
    • Hang on. Let me get this straight. The desire is to have coilovers, BC in particular, to be MORE comfortable on Sydney roads than stock suspension? Well, that's obviously not right. BCs have crude damping design at the very best, and typically hard spring rates. BC stands for Billy Cart. And then, the desire is to put in some shitty old worn out stockers, to get it blue slipped and then put the BCs back in? And then.....what? Not worry about getting pulled up by the Plod? Because you seem to have raised a worry about paying for engineering (which actually does solve all your legality problems) and still getting pulled up.... but the only problem there is that if/when that happens you have to show your paperwork at the inspection station. Whereas, if you just swap in borrowed shitty old stockers to get it slipped now, and then you get defected in the future, you have to go find more shitty old stockers then too. You course of action looks like this set of options: Buy brand new stock type dampers, and springs. probably cost a bit more than $1k all up, but will last for the remaining life of the car. Put them in, pass inspection, drive on them forever more. Hell, they could even be really nice Bilsteins and Kings or other lower&stiffer springs if you wanted. Get the car engineered as is. ~$1k. Buy new Shockworks coilvers (or MCA) and also pay for engineering. You're spending a lot more here. But these will be the best things that you could drive around on.
    • Might be worthwhile hitting up Facebook's groups, I know most of them contain terrible people and scammers - however you might be able to find someone that's in Sydney with factory suspension you could purchase and/or hire. Just do not send any form of money anywhere, in person cash only.
    • Thanks @Duncan Ride height is fine. I think it's almost stock tbh. Happy to share a pic. I don't actually have a regular mechanic as haven't lived in Sydney too long. Could you or anyone recommend any shops in Sydney?
×
×
  • Create New...