Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Car, engine, current modification level? What about getting your handling/braking sorted first? More important to be able to stop your car than go fast.

Otherwise, search in the dyno thread results for a power level you might want to achieve, then have a read of the mods required to do it. Then base your purchase by priority if you have to do it part by part.

ie; before getting a gt3076r, think about getting a ecu (afm or maf?), then exhaust, fmic if you feel the need, injectors, pump, etc.

^ thats hardly accurate anyway.

It was just ripped from the pages of this forum by someone who had no idea what he was ripping.

As if upping the boost to 10psi only gives 10rwkw - thats where MOST of the gains come from.

I think there are enough build threads these days not to warrant a guide to modding thread... R33s are probably the simplest car to mod, all you need is to buy a fairly unmolested example and the outcome is anyones game.

OP just try and keep your car as simple as possible. Power mods to a STOCK car as follows:

JJR bellmouth dump, 3" cat, 3" catback (feel free to go bigger)

JJR cross flow intercooler (feel free to get a better quality item)

Turbotech boost tap (feel free to use an EBC)

Walbro or Bosch fuel pump

Get it on a dyno and turn the boost up till just before you hit cut, should do 180rwkw on 9 or 10 psi.

Add turbo of choice (from highflow to GT30 style item or high mount and external gate, do the reading and pick your poison)

Add injectors/Z32 afm/ECU and tune to suit the turbo change

The described above could easily get you up to 350rwkw on pump fuel with the right turbo choice. If something fails, you tackle it individually to the above, like coilpacks. They are not NEEDED unless your stock ones fail, and then new stock items are usually best again.

Thats all you need to know, now you have to do lots of reading.

Goodluck,

I think there are enough build threads these days not to warrant a guide to modding thread... R33s are probably the simplest car to mod, all you need is to buy a fairly unmolested example and the outcome is anyones game.

OP just try and keep your car as simple as possible. Power mods to a STOCK car as follows:

JJR bellmouth dump, 3" cat, 3" catback (feel free to go bigger)

JJR cross flow intercooler (feel free to get a better quality item)

Turbotech boost tap (feel free to use an EBC)

Walbro or Bosch fuel pump

Get it on a dyno and turn the boost up till just before you hit cut, should do 180rwkw on 9 or 10 psi.

Add turbo of choice (from highflow to GT30 style item or high mount and external gate, do the reading and pick your poison)

Add injectors/Z32 afm/ECU and tune to suit the turbo change

The described above could easily get you up to 350rwkw on pump fuel with the right turbo choice. If something fails, you tackle it individually to the above, like coilpacks. They are not NEEDED unless your stock ones fail, and then new stock items are usually best again.

Thats all you need to know, now you have to do lots of reading.

Goodluck,

+1 to this.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...