Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yep, finally achieved my goal by taking the car from 206rwkw to 217rwkw at an average of 13psi (peaks to 15 then drops off).

This was achieved with cam gear adjustment, ignition timing and fuel (fuel only offered 2kwkw) The car now runs very smooth and feels quick.

From most accounts 220rwkw is the absolute max possible from the stock injectors in perfect condition so I am hapy with the 217 that I have....next mods include the new injectors I just bought and a tasty new turbo:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3929-217rwkw-finally/
Share on other sites

boosty - well done, what are you expecting, hoping for tomorow?

i wont be coming up. and dave prolly wont...

and that pm he sent you, well that was true, if you can get me that stuff i will be happy ads more rice, my goal is to beat loz, i think i am alrready coz atleast his is a gtst..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3929-217rwkw-finally/#findComment-63882
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Doctor

well done mate. THat is a bloody fine effort. I should get a list of mods that you have done to get that output.

Once again, great effort.

Doc

Nice work Cam!!

Doc - no you CAN'T get your 'cooler back off me. :):D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3929-217rwkw-finally/#findComment-63904
Share on other sites

I wanna see dr drifts car on that dyno cam he would make around 220 rwkw on that @ 1 bar :-) and he only made 170rwkw on the dyno we use but ran a 108 mph @ .9 bar which is a good indicator.

good luck on the weekend I hope you crak the12 its not easy and power isn't the only issue as you know

meggala

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3929-217rwkw-finally/#findComment-63940
Share on other sites

I am using a VG30 non ball bearing ceramic ex wheel turbo.

I will be using 550cc injectors as you mentioned.

Prank....I am quite scared of the mighty SR....I know first hand how good they are and how fast they can be made with minimal mods.

Yeh HP isn't everything as you say steve, traction is a big issue but I think I have it as sorted as possible with 40 series tyres. On the street I have managed some good launches at 1000rpm higher than I managed on the sticky strip so tomorrow I will try for a further 1000 rpm on the launch (5500prm) If I can nail it at 12 should follow as my new clutch is awesome.

But then again I will probably end up running slower than previous.....drag racing is a fickle business.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3929-217rwkw-finally/#findComment-63964
Share on other sites

How laggy is that turbo on the street but?

Tilbrooks have seem to not like the VG30 terbs they say they are as laggy as hell and come on at around 4500rpm for the Non-BB one.

They also said that the Non-BB terbs seem to make more power than the BB terbs.

The Ceramic Exhaust Non-BB terb that you have, do you know what car it came off??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3929-217rwkw-finally/#findComment-64122
Share on other sites

yes I regret getting the rb25 turbo now although its not bad and forget the non ceramic one I was told mine was and it was ceramic

meggala

and the one I had was non ballbearing.boost started @3k fullboost by 4 ecven dr drift who is ruuning a hiflowed one 54 mm exhauist wheel as opposed to 49 mm has full boost by 4100 now with a re mapped ecu.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3929-217rwkw-finally/#findComment-64129
Share on other sites

But compared to the std turbo which starts making boost at 1800rpm and full boost by 2800rpm but the std turbo doesn't really get going until aroud 3500rpm to 4k..

basically once the vg30 hits 4k its off storming.. not like the std rb20 one is at 3k.. Kinda confused my self there but i can't be bothered retyping :)

Get what i'm getting at?!~?!?

I got Tinted Windows Last Weekend.

Instant Windscreens TB35. Lifetime Warranty 99% or what ever it is UV resistant I think.. Its pretty nice looking now..

A little to dark.. Will have to be carefull of the police as there's a crack down here in SA at the moment which ppls are unaware of.

Dad is with the Taxi Board and gets a booklet which tells him of these things.

Oh yer.. It cost $250 inc Gst.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3929-217rwkw-finally/#findComment-64131
Share on other sites

i dont know how feasible this option is, but the turbo came with my car. the T04 makes full boost around 3800-4000rpm and goes very hard on boost!

im getting there with power figures, currently making 220rwhp untuned (approx 165rwkw) @12psi.

Looking for a remap soonish and aiming for 200rwkw/280rwhp. thats with std injectors and a bosch fuel pump....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3929-217rwkw-finally/#findComment-64169
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...