Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys. I just wanted to post this up so that no one else has to go through the pain I have gone through, not to meantion the financial loss, so try to keep this bumped.

Backstory: I recieved a dent in my r34's roof from the neighbours playing cricket outside their house. It apparently was a freak clip and it bounced off a wall and into my roof. Left a NASTY dent, and a big scratch in the middle of it. The dents location is in the exact centre of the roof, about 30mm from the winsheild up. The dent itself is about the size of a 20 cent coin. The neighbours did confront me about this, and as much as I wanted to rip their heads off about it, it was an accident and the kid who did it was like 8, so it was better to appreciate his honesty rather then flame him infront of his dad. I got a quote from a good panel and paint guy (friend of mine - Terry Kho, absolute perfectionist and very good prices, if you are in Perth and in need I highly recommend him. His work is on facebook, take a look, it's brilliant..) for $400, including the removal of a few other small dents that were easy to ding out and some slight buffing. The neighbours gave me $200 towards it and I forked out the rest.

tl:dr - Start here

The dents location.. Centre of the roof, 30mm back from the winsheild, 20c coin sized. Hard to see in an image taken from my phone, but fairly noticable when clean.

img0030rt.th.jpg

Basically there is welding work supporting the rear vision mirror right beneath it.

img0029vn.th.jpg

To remove the dent:

1) Cut back the frame work, pop out the dent, then refabricate. This is actually a substancially large job, and the chance for shit to go wrong is quite high, and you know the pricks will burn something or cut something when they are in the car welding.

or

2) Drill a hole through the roof, use a hook to pull the dent out, seal, and repaint whole roof. The better of the 2 options, but it may be quite costly.

I plan on painting my car matte black within the next couple years when I make it into a show car, so EVENTUALLY, it won't matter. But for now I am still quite pissed off that it is there, and I wasted money on something that could not be fixed.

~Steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393661-roof-dent-r34-skyline/
Share on other sites

In my Home Contents Insurance PDS, it says that any item on my premises is covered whether it be an item that comes down from above etc...

...so long as I'm not responsible for that falling object.

Want to look into that?

No to both of those options for repair, have you looked into paintless dent removal?

Or if its to hard to pull out that way because of the frame underneath, the panel beater should have a dent puller which welds a little pin on then you chuck the slide hammer on and pull it out easy as.

No drilling or cutting of any sort

If you have to repaint anyway; PDR is a bit pointless.

As r31slpr said; any decent panel shop will spot weld little copper pins and pull the dent with a slide hammer without having to drill holes.

If your friend is the perfectionist you say he is; leave it to him and his proffesional expertise. $400 doesn't sound too bad to pull a dent and respray a roof from my experience.:thumbsup:

In my Home Contents Insurance PDS, it says that any item on my premises is covered whether it be an item that comes down from above etc...

...so long as I'm not responsible for that falling object.

Want to look into that?

That is actually a good point, I will ask my dad about that..

$400 doesn't sound too bad to pull a dent and respray a roof from my experience.

The quote was for the dent to be removed and buffed out, the reason it was so expensive was because the roof lining had to come off.

The PDR, which I am assuming is that suction cup that pops it out, apparently wouldn't work as the dent is too 'sharp'.

Looks like you'll have to have it pulled and painted then, it shouldn't cost too much.

But is it really worth it? Its a fair amount of effort for such a small dent. It could easily happen again aswell from even a nut falling from a tree

Looks like you'll have to have it pulled and painted then, it shouldn't cost too much.

But is it really worth it? Its a fair amount of effort for such a small dent. It could easily happen again aswell from even a nut falling from a tree

A nut from a tree would create a smaller then 5c dent, and I am not TOO worried about that. This dent is 20c piece +. It is fairly big. But, it wouldn't be that noticable to other people, it's just because it is mine.. You know..

The quote was for the dent to be removed and buffed out, the reason it was so expensive was because the roof lining had to come off.

The PDR, which I am assuming is that suction cup that pops it out, apparently wouldn't work as the dent is too 'sharp'.

Suction cup dent removal is backyard stuff. Not saying it doesn't work on some dents, mind you.

Most PDR is done with specialised tools from behind the dent; you wouldn't believe the places these guys can get to. I have had dents removed from a bonnet and roof where the bracing covered the area.

If the paint is cracked; PDR will sometimes lift the paint, especially if there is a crease. And of course; the paint would still have to be repaired.

Edited by Daleo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...