Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Help me please. I have a R33 and for a while i was having trouble with it spluttering and idleing bad mainly after putting it under load. So i changed the coil packs that made no difference so i decided to change the fuel filter. When i took the filter off i tipped the fuel out and it was filthy and brown. So i put a bottle on the line and turned the reds on to see what it was like coming from the tank and it was clean. After changing the fuel filter and cleaning the AFM the car ran fine untill today. I boosted it up it made a pop when i backed off it started to splutter and idle bad when trying to drive it it just wanted to come on to boost and kept fluttering ( i have a bov atmosphere/plumbback) i pulled over to check it then everything went back to normal its now driving fine again and boosting smoothly.

The car is pretty much stock apart from exhaust, FMIC and BOV

Any ideas???

Hmmm... When you said pop that definately sounded like a intercooler hose coming off. Maybe you popped another vacuum hose somewhere. Do you hear a whistling or sucking?

Black smoke when it happened?

Car is perfectly fine now?

i checked all the vacume lines and intercooler pipes and double checked they were tight everything was fine.

There was no sucking or whistling noises or anything and it did blow a heap of black smoke once before when i was trying to keep the revs up and i could smell petrol. This was before i did the coil packs and fuel filter.

Its not fine i thought it was untill yesterday. it sometimes hunts for idle and ive noticed the thing that brings it on is when its been bought under light boost after the turbo flutters the car wants to stall then hunts a bit it dosnt do it all the time. Could it be the BOV?

Cheers

if the bov is venting to atmosphere thats more than likely your problem, the way they work means that the car is getting unmetered air (air not measured by the afm) and therefore idles and runs poorly, needs a retune to fix it. if it plumbs back then you have a vacuum leak somewhere

Best bet to find such a crack would be to soap the piping or hosing to see a leak. Do you run a tee or boost cont with a aftermarket gauge? If so u should notice the pai dropping once u reach max psi.

Other option could be fuel pump shat itself, if it smells like fuel afterward

Best bet to find such a crack would be to soap the piping or hosing to see a leak. Do you run a tee or boost cont with a aftermarket gauge? If so u should notice the pai dropping once u reach max psi.

Other option could be fuel pump shat itself, if it smells like fuel afterward

This wert work. Under vacuum you aren't going to get bubbles. He needs to pressurise the intake then soak the stuff.

Failing fuel pump will make the car hard to start and will cause it to pop on boost and potentially even in low medium load without boost.

Edited by SargeRX8

This wert work. Under vacuum you aren't going to get bubbles. He needs to pressurise the intake then soak the stuff.

Failing fuel pump will make the car hard to start and will cause it to pop on boost and potentially even in low medium load without boost.

Vacuum in the manifold. the pipes have a small amount of pressure in them

Lastnight I took the BOV of and replaced it with the gfb stealth as i noticed the one that was on it was open 100% on both sides. I have the gfb one running 100% plumback.

Anyways took the car for a drive gave it heaps and it drove fine held boost and did everything it should.

Coming home from work this arvo about half hour into the drive just cruising didnt boost it up it started to splutter.

it also feels like the car sometimes cuts out completly then comes back to life splutering and carrying on.

the car stalled i fired it up it then drove normal for the last 5min of the trip home

What was the filter on the pump like ?

Have u drained fuel to check quality of it ?

Also check all fuel lines make sure there all good not split or leaking or sucking water

What is the timing set at ?

The filter on the pump was a little dirty it was light brown. i havnt drained the fuel but when i had the filter off i pumped some into a bottle and it was clean.

ok thanks ill go over all the fuel lines.

not to sure about the timming as far as i know its never been touched

The filter on the pump was a little dirty it was light brown. i havnt drained the fuel but when i had the filter off i pumped some into a bottle and it was clean.

ok thanks ill go over all the fuel lines.

not to sure about the timming as far as i know its never been touched

The only reason I say check timing is that if ur cad I faulty ur timing may possibly be off if u get the chance hook up to a consult

Hey mate,

I remember reading somewhere recently that BOVs venting to atmosphere might cause stalling issues for skylines. I can't find the exact site where I read it, but here are some links for extra info on how others have solved it. Hope it helps!

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gts-tech/9424-bov-causing-stalling.html

http://www.alltrac.net/tuning/bovfaq.html

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=101975

http://www.xspeed.com.au/manuals/FG-ADM-R33.pdf

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...