Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i dont think its legal to have the light source a different color coming out of the headlight... looks light the light will come ouit the same color as the film.. that would restrict light in night driving conditions.

I would say, the cops would state something like that..

There was a guy on here looking to sell a similar film which I think he was from WA and did advertise the stuff on eBay. Basically the stuff he was selling he said didn't effect light output or light colour.

[edit]

I am pretty confident this is the product that guy was selling

http://www.ebay.com....7#ht_909wt_1180

[edit 2]

The Crystalite website and if you go through the FAQ it states that it doesn't change light colour or light output.

http://www.crystalite.com.my/

Edited by Triptych

I respectfully disagree sir.

IMG_0102.jpg

I respectfully believe you have just proven Hamishs' point :nyaanyaa:

Edited by Cowboy1600

I respectfully disagree sir.

IMG_0102.jpg

that is niiiiyyyce!!!....

if a cop was to getting anyone from low output of light from the headlights (due to the film) it would be at night when they notice that you cant light up the road correctly.. get some hids or very strong bulbs...

\Crystalite looks good. im might do this now :)

Edited by seriesII

I wouldn't mind the black for my head lights and tail lights just to smoke them out without effecting the light output like those people with the old commodores who buy the tint spray and put 2 million coats on so you can just see a little light where the bulb is its brightest.

who cares if they are legal... they are ghey

This...

So films that change the colour of the headlight don't affect the light output? Well f**k physics

And this...

If you had a show car with Ghost Flames down the side, then it might look good, just to be different, but on the road it would look pretty "ghey"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...