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Looks great!

How do you join the two halves?

Structural epoxy adhesive. Put both halves back in the mould untrimmed, put the adhesive on the joint and then bolt the two halves of the mould together.

Have now infused the other half and filmed it this time, so for those that are interested, this is how I make each half:

Structural epoxy adhesive. Put both halves back in the mould untrimmed, put the adhesive on the joint and then bolt the two halves of the mould together.

Have now infused the other half and filmed it this time, so for those that are interested, this is how I make each half:

Damn thing didn't post:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V71k0VNi-vU&list=UUrTGbs2Wk4T5hblvKod-5zQ

Also forgot to add, the total weight of the first half untrimmed is a hefty 112 grams, and takes all of my 85kg's standing on it without any distortion.

  • Like 1

Second half is now also finished. Didn't take any photos, but it looks the same as the first half :laugh:

Bought a - 10 Speedflow fitting for the breather return as well. Just waiting for my aluminium flat bar to arrive so I can bond it in, drill and tap it, then bond the two halves together and trim em up! Once I can fit it into the car, I'll work out my plumbing route for the bov return.

  • 4 weeks later...

Forgot to update this! I decided against the initial plan of bonding in a piece of 10mm aly flat bar as it proved too difficult to bend, instead decided to use a -10 Speedflow weld-on fitting which I scored and bonded in:

10152426_10151964043012541_2123605741419

1491654_10151964042952541_65765948613121
10169323_10151964043047541_5481263229588
I placed some woven fibreglass rovings into those grooves to help distribute any load placed on the fitting, then layed a piece of fibreglass over the top followed by an additional two layers of carbon fibre. The fibreglass is an important layer to separate the carbon and the aluminium, preventing galvanic corrosion.
10253919_10151964043132541_8646971665272
10171744_10151964043187541_5088805546055
Then bonded the two halves together using structural epoxy adhesive:
1978869_10151964043257541_78976412146382
Cleaned it up a bit, then polished:
10177941_10151964034577541_4907155736785

1606975_10151964034517541_59298124511784

10169446_10151964034442541_4053028006393

10262063_10151964034377541_8825594484521

It has been done, many times, just not so much with Skylines which does surprise me a little bit. If you're interested, PM me, I would be happy to make more for anyone interested.

Thought I'd post some photos of it all fitted up too:

603628_10151965716552541_522039540013891

10170918_10151965716797541_7351319015688

Had to be careful not to strain my back putting it in :P Final weight including the fittings is 193 grams. To give you an idea, the original stainless 3" pipe (which was also 100mm shorter) weighed 775 grams.

  • Like 2

Came out awesome! Does the bond between the AN fitting and the pipe have enough strength to tolerate the appropriate torquing loads?

As I mentioned before, if you make a 3" pipe to AFM, I'd definitely be up for one :)

Thanks guys :)

The bond definitely has enough strength, that fitting isn't going anywhere. To be honest, I've probably completely over-engineered that. In case you're interested, the epoxy adhesive that I used, Araldite 2014, is a structural adhesive which by itself has a lap shear strength of 19Mpa, or 2755psi. Then in addition to that, I've used the fibreglass rovings in the grooves I cut into the fitting to help distribute the load, and the reinforcement (layer of fibreglass and double layer of carbon fibre) behind it will also help absorb and distribute load. Realistically, you would destroy the fitting well before you even overcame the strength of the adhesive let alone needed the laminate around it, but I like to be sure about these things ;)

I've PM'd you by the way mate :)

Edited by Hanaldo

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