Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So the extremes pf Perth weather seems to be too much for my stock radiator (f**ker is probably blocking up again like they do on R33's etc...)

So i have purchased a new 52mm aluminium radiator to go in it.

My question is, should i have the block etc cooling system pressure/reverse flushed before i put the new radiator on or would that be overkill?

Just a bit concerned that i might have a buildup of sediment throught the cooling channels in the motor (also contributing to its tendency to get too hot), also that in the future there might be shit to dislodge and then end up starting the blocking process in my new radiator...

then again, changing a radiator is a job i can do free of charge, the alternative is paying a workshop to exchange the radiators and do the flush at the time which i wouldnt mind avoiding if its possible (and unneccessary)...

thoughts/ experience?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/394634-installing-a-new-radiator/
Share on other sites

So the extremes pf Perth weather seems to be too much for my stock radiator (f**ker is probably blocking up again like they do on R33's etc...)

So i have purchased a new 52mm aluminium radiator to go in it.

My question is, should i have the block etc cooling system pressure/reverse flushed before i put the new radiator on or would that be overkill?

Just a bit concerned that i might have a buildup of sediment throught the cooling channels in the motor (also contributing to its tendency to get too hot), also that in the future there might be shit to dislodge and then end up starting the blocking process in my new radiator...

then again, changing a radiator is a job i can do free of charge, the alternative is paying a workshop to exchange the radiators and do the flush at the time which i wouldnt mind avoiding if its possible (and unneccessary)...

thoughts/ experience?

My thoughts. Any crap in the block is gunna end up in the new shiny radiator if you do not flush the said crap out. Up to you.

Cheers GW

Already done :thumbsup:

yeah im pretty good with bolts n my mate has a 4 point hoist so should be able to get at it ok...

Replace thermostat and radiator cap with OEM stuff from nissan while you are at it.

they are about $30 and $20 respectively.

oh and good luck getting that drain bolt off the block.. :D

how would i do the bottom hose? the thermostat will be closed n block any water coming out no?

i was planning on sealing the garden hose onto the top radiator hose n just blasting it until what comes out the drain plug looks clean....

shall i run the car at the same time n turn on the heater to open the heater core?

Don't forget to do the heater core aswell. Also put the hose in both front radiator hoses plus the two from the heater to the engine. Keep repeating till the water is coming out clear.

yeah i was figuring on having the car dead cold n starting the flush that way n then starting it after a while n turning on the heater to flush the core out.

Prob only run it for 60 secs like that...

shouldnt cause any probs should it?

ah yep.

goood point. Cheers.

my only other concern in this process is that am i likely to dislodge some crud in the system that could lodge in the turbo's coolant supply?

(my nice new HKS turbo that i want to life a long and healthy life...)

I've recently done mine..

Took the thermostat out first, disconnected top and bottom hoses from the rad.

Flushed water through the top hose until the bottom flowed clear, then flushed through the bottom hose until the top flowed clear, then did t all again.

Disconnected hoses from the heater at the firewall, flushed the heater core both ways, then flushed through both of the heater hoses as well, then went back to the top hose and did it all again twice.

Drained the water out, blew through all hoses to try and get more out, blew through the heater core to get the water out.

yeah seems like the comprehensive way to do it.

Tho i just did the thermostat so dont really want to pull that whole job apart again just to flush... guddammit :P

will defaintely do the heater core flush though n out the back of the motor from the drain plug.

might sus it on the day as to how patient im feeling n whether to get the thermostat out n flush right down to there.

might just put in a TEFBA filter n be done with it that way...

I've recently done mine..

Took the thermostat out first, disconnected top and bottom hoses from the rad.

Flushed water through the top hose until the bottom flowed clear, then flushed through the bottom hose until the top flowed clear, then did t all again.

Disconnected hoses from the heater at the firewall, flushed the heater core both ways, then flushed through both of the heater hoses as well, then went back to the top hose and did it all again twice.

Drained the water out, blew through all hoses to try and get more out, blew through the heater core to get the water out.

Edited by jjman

yeah but its a brand new one in there n also all of the gasket sealant job which is all working perfectly.

If i get in there something might f*k up n ill be dealing with something else... :P

But ur right, ill prob just have to man up on it :thumbsup:

the thermostat is only three bolts ya lazy bugger :P If your good you can do it with out taking off any hoses lol.

Lol iv never used gasket goo on any thermostat on any car ive ever owned. And just recently did the RB25.

Never had a leak. So i guess in my case its easier ha. :)

Bus seriously, unless you drain the block and all matter of gunk falls out with the coolant, just flush it as per normal. There wont be a much in there. I think some people are just far too pedantic about it. Its been mentioned before, Skylines arent some mystical creature that needs any extra special procedures for general maintenance ;)

As a precaution, just flush it without the radiator plumbed in so your shiny new rad doesnt get anything unwanted in it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • In Vic it would be a defect regardless of whether or not you cut a hole in the sheetmetal for the return pipe. The rules in Vic are shitful, and are generally interpreted as you can "make 2 mods to the intake system". Putting an FFP and an FMI onto it will almost certainly be seen as some huge number of intake mods. You really need to speak to an engineer before doing this stuff in VIC.
    • planning a r34 rb25 de+t with some other work, rather just have it done in a shop due to space limitations any recommendations? I have most the parts already I seen online Moore Performance and DR Drift any advice appreciated thanks 
    • I’ve read the previous posts so just looking for latest information on how people have dealt with front facing plenum is it a defect etc or didn’t pass roadworthy or was it not noticed? Have a r34 and deciding if I should make a hole on the driver side or not.  I know some people have said blitz return flow but I might get rid of the stock intake down the line for a plenum so I rather set up for that now plus I already have a standard Intercooler. Car is mainly stock  Thanks. 
    • Actually, if having and keeping the stock ECU is the plan, the correct answer is to put Nistune into the ECU and improve the situation, not just look at it.
    • Wrong side of sydney for me coming from Goulburn, but you should head along, all ages of Skylines will be very welcome
×
×
  • Create New...