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I have spent the last 2 afternoons trying to fit the back water line onto my new SS1PU

And I give up I can't think of any other way of flitting it.

Was meant to be booked in with DVS on the central coast this Friday but I doubt I will make it

Anyone good at bending the water lines or got any ideas?

I tried heating it and everything but just can't get it in the correct spot

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/395244-bloody-tired-and-out-of-hope/
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lol dude I knew this would happen...I'm sure Pat feels for you big time, I know that even when I was simply refitting the turbo the second time it took me hours to get the water line back on (banjo bolt would NOT line up).

I'd suggest perhaps removing the turbo from the manifold, then attempting to get the banjo bolt onto the thread in that position, then bolting turbo back to manifold. Will give you a bit more space to work with.

Otherwise you'll have to remove the water lines completely and get braided lines to suit.

I just did this on my 32, yes its a pain but it didnt take that long, you might have less room.

my line was touching the split dump, got the banjo fitting fitted with a barbed fitting at Enzed, then put hose with and an insulating sleeve, cut line behind head (mini pipe cutters) and slipped it on about 100mm with 2 hose clamps to hold it tight

it seemed quicker than trying to remake the metal line, havent driven it far, so far so good.

yeah and little cuts from clips and stuff and a sore neck and crippled knees, fun stuff.

like troy says, much easier if you remove everything in that area. everything.

i have lots of tools to choose from, that made it easier for me.

and found the same line today on an old turbo in the shed, off a 32.

if you have the time to make a metal line it is the most solid long term solution, im going to make one for mine when they get more 8mm line(enzed).

pm me if u need anything.

good luck

Actually Mik you just provoked an interesting thought - the water system isn't under very much pressure, is it? What could possibly be a drawback to doing exactly as you said - replacing a section of the hard piping with appropriate rubber piping, which would allow some flex and easy fitting of the banjo bolt onto the turbo? Surly if you routed it correctly and insulated appropriately, the heat from being near the manifold etc would be negligible. Especially if you positioned this rubber piping further towards the back of the block, away from everything.

I had a setup like that for years never leaked a drop

Awesome! The block-side water line fitting is pretty much the only reason why I absolutely never want to remove my turbo again....Now I'm going to do it the moment it's back on the road!

Holy shit that sounds so simple.

So correct me if im wrong guys

I cut the pipe as it bends around the block and fit a high pressure insulated hose with 2 clamps to it.

then connect the other end of the hose to the section of the pipe that meets up with the turbo with another 2 clamps?

This should hold the pressure and withstand the heat?

I was curious about the heat part, so I'm not sure what kinda hose you'd have to use....

The pressure however appears to be absolutely shit all (15psi) in the grand scheme of things. My vacuum lines to the actuator hold slightly higher pressure than that without clamps.

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