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So been busy lately, boss had the day off so got the 32 on the hoist. Bled the brakes all good, installed the 33 clutch i grabbed out of the wreck along with flywheel. Just banged it together for now as i just want to get motor running first then worry about upgrading clutch ect. Tried to bleed the clutch but seems to be pretty blocked up with shit. So being hot humid and over it i gave up and will try on a cooler day. But happy with box in at least engine is sitting where it should now i can finnish cooler piping and mount radiator ect.

  • 2 weeks later...

So did some digging over the last week or so. Found my clutch bleed problem lies within a metal square preportioning valve looking thing underneath the tunnel. The fluid goes from the master down to this device, loops around and back to the slave. Apparently once completely emptied as this system was almost imposible to bleed. So getting a metal pipe made to suit to delete this item. Grabed a set of used iridium plugs that i changed out of a 33 at work today. They look in ok condition enough to let the 32 idle at least for now. Then ill swap them out. Still saving for cooler piping to finnish it off and some vacume lines for IAC valve ect to re-route due to manifold change. Hopefully within the next month or just after xmas she should start :)

So quiet again at work today. Bleeding the clutch found something wasnt right. Turned out that the clutch master cylinder after sitting around in the elements for who knows how long has failed. My brake place can supply the seals so a simple re-seal should do the trick. Other then that just trial fitted radiator back in now engine is sitting right and also fitted radiator hoses which needed slight modification to suit. All in all getting there. Should be picking up the rest of the cooler piping within the next week or 2. Priced it up only about $150 will completely cover everything I need to finnish that side of things. Pic to come.

hey mate great build, will be interesting to see how it turns out, with your turbo mate.. i found that the dsr430 turbo was a great upgrade.

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=467536&st=0&p=5991023entry5991023

(link to my old skyline i sold a while back that i put the turbo on, if you want the spec/pic of it..)

it didnt cost me a hole lot either, boost comes on quick an stong considering its only a rb20

cheers bud keep up the good work

Cheers mate ill check it out. My fingers are crossed this R33 turbo is ok for now as my money is tight. Once shes running ill start slowly swapping things out. So i had some braided lines given to me with the EBOOST 2 I brought some months ago. I decided to use it as it looks good and is practical. So ran the line from the manifold to the controler. Looks good and fit great. Will wire in the solinoid soon and once cooler piping is done she will be ready to start! Heres a pic of the braided line and solinoid. Still have other spare speed flow braided lines so have to find a use for them ;)

solinoid.jpg

Well have a dilly of a pickle atm. Got the rebuilt clutch cylinder back in yesterday. While plotting around the engine bay i noticed the brake master was a little low on fluid. Low and behold when i took the lid off no brake fluid in the brake master. Turns out the bloody thing has a pin hole leak in the side of the master where it looks like an allen key screw is. Turns out it cant be rebuilt and needs a new one. Unfortunately my brake bloke reckons you cant get an aftermarket one for me so hes gonna have a look around and let me know. Anyone use a different brake master on their gtst? Anyway Cooler piping is due to be brought next week and she should be ready to start :)

As my car is non-ABS and I have large 6 piston front brakes, I use the larger N1 master cylinder on my GTSt.

It's not cheap though - it cost roughly $500 when I bought it new from Nissan 4 years ago.

You're probably best to keep you eye out for someone wrecking a GTSt and try to get a used BMC that way.

  • 2 weeks later...

Well rest of cooler pipes have been ordered from Just Jap. Nice and cheap, so may be able to hear her run before xmas. was going to buy the pre made intake pipe from AFM to turbo but decided to make a nice one out of the left over cooler pipes. should get a nice little induction noise :)

So cooler piping came in, all connected now. Put some oil in her today and cranked her over. alas no spark. Looks like the R33 S1 igniter isnt compatible with the rb20 so looks like i have to get a second hand one. She turns over strong and has great compression. Fuel pressure is great as well for a pump that layed dormant for so long in a back yard. Heres some pics, yes i used normal hose clamps for now as budget is pretty tight right now. But once shes running ill invest in some proper clamps. Heres some pipe pics enjoy.

hotside1.jpg

hotside2.jpg

coldside2-1.jpg

coldside1.jpg

So cranked car over for first time today with a proper RB20 ignitor unit. Got spark and fuel to rail but a weakish injector pulse. Power at both ends of plug which i know is normal from looking at diagrams, ran a new earth from chassis to engine. Node light pulses but weak so dont know if injectors are opening properly or not. Plenty of comression for what i can hear. Hmmmm Back to the drawing board.

So quick update again lol, during lunch found start you bastard can, sprayed in intake and she fired first go. Injector pulse is good looks like fuel pump has shat itself but. Im only getting 5psi to the reg at the rail. So new fuel pump is required. But with a soaking of start you bastard she starts first go and idles for 5 seconds lol. Ill wack a video up tonight or tomorrow so u can all have a laugh.

So good news, fuel pump is ok (for now) Turns out the Rb20DET is back to front when it comes to running fuel lines. The feed from tank comes out the filter and into the rear fuel reg first, then out the front one and back to the tank. Having attached these backwards this caused the no fuel issue. Thanks to my mate for checking on his RB20 and letting me know. So now she runs, idles and revs. Havent run it to long as i dont have a cluster so not sure on water temp yet. So that is the next thing on my to get list. But seems to idle fine, no strange knocks, lifters are slightly noisy but its a brand spanking new head so expect it to settle donw a little when run in. Got a vid so work out how to get off my iphone and onto forum for yo guys.

Merry xmas and ill be updating again in the new year :)

  • 4 weeks later...

Hey guys some good news. Been working hard while the boss has been on holidays. Managed to score a custom tailshaft off my mate. Got all the minor details sorted to make her run. Changed gearbox and diff oils, they looked clean as when they were drained. Fired her up and drover her out the shop for the first time since getting her 10 months ago. Felt good sounded loud. unfortunately im almost on a main road so have no quiet street to take her for a quick squirt on, So she hasnt left 1st gear yet. Heres some picks. saving for the exhaust now and some plexi windows. Then will be ready for a shake down :) Also installed some shadow pro series gauges. Oil pressure and water temp. They are DEFi copies and have the same warning and peak recal aswell as start up/shut down sequences.

switchpanelnew_zpsdec40278.jpg

tailshaft_zps3f368cdd.jpg

frontalmostdone_zps60618909.jpg

So quick update. Go the addapters for the sender units for both guages turn up yesterday. Have installed the temp one and put coolant in radiator. Mounting oil sandwitch plate today hopefully at sometime. Then engine is complete besides exhaust. Then just visual stuff and she will be ready to go. :) not long now.

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