Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, looking for some more info on basic paint restoration/ cleanup.

I'm gonna spend a bit of time on one of my cars which has grey paint.

the paint is ok but its a bit tired, their are some parts resprayed, most is original, and almost all is lightly scratched and swirled with age, so i wanna bring it back up.

the front bar has recently been resprayed which has left the whole car covered in light fallout.

i do have a claybar which i gave a shot on part of the bonnet which works a treat.

my question is whats a good product to use with the claybar for lube? (off the shelf products)

also what polish is good, again off the shelf stuff, by polish i mean a cutting compound with no protectants in it at all.

also what pad should i use for an orbital polisher, remembering i know nothing about them...

which order do i go in relation to claybar then polish or polish they claybar?

and after they are done whats a good paint sealant, do i just get a good wax?

thanks for any help guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/395897-a-few-questions-for-tired-paint/
Share on other sites

Hey all, looking for some more info on basic paint restoration/ cleanup.

I'm gonna spend a bit of time on one of my cars which has grey paint.

the paint is ok but its a bit tired, their are some parts resprayed, most is original, and almost all is lightly scratched and swirled with age, so i wanna bring it back up.

the front bar has recently been resprayed which has left the whole car covered in light fallout.

i do have a claybar which i gave a shot on part of the bonnet which works a treat.

my question is whats a good product to use with the claybar for lube? (off the shelf products)

also what polish is good, again off the shelf stuff, by polish i mean a cutting compound with no protectants in it at all.

also what pad should i use for an orbital polisher, remembering i know nothing about them...

which order do i go in relation to claybar then polish or polish they claybar?

and after they are done whats a good paint sealant, do i just get a good wax?

thanks for any help guys

Hello,

In regards to claybar lube - if your looking for an off the shelf product, i use either mothers showtime or meguiars quick detailer.

Off the shelf polishing product with a cutting compound - I recommend Meguiars Ultimate compound, or if you need something tougher - go to Meguiars M105. Either way, follow this with Meguiars Ultimate Polish and then Meguiars Ultimate Wax. (Or if you want to save a few bucks, Meguiars Deep Crystal pure polish and Meguiars NXT Gen Tech Wax 2.0 will also do the trick).

I'd also recommend the Menzerna cutting products, they seem to have a longer working time and dont dust as hard as some of the Meguiars products.

The pads will differ depending on what you are trying to achieve. I use Lake Country pads - used to use meguiars soft buff 2.0 ones but i find the LC pads to be much better quality. If I were you, i'd get a LC white wool, LC purple foam/wool, LC yellow, LC orange, LC black, LC white and LC blue. That would be a good start and you'll definately end up using them eventually.

Regardless, apply with the pads and remove with microfibre towels.

Im no pro, just sharing what works for me - hopefully it helps.

Cheers.

Edited by iwanta34gtr

I've never tried it, but heard the car wash and water is also an option.

I believe some clays are sensitive to soap though, it may break them up or weaken them?

Lets see what some of the pro's say - im interested. I've actually saved a spray bottle so if its okay, i'll give it a go next time and save some $.

And by the way - its wash, clay, wash, compound, wash, polish, wash, wax.

SO SO Wrong.

you dont have to wash after clay you can use water and wipe with a micrfibre or just rinse. Why would you wash after compounding when you are going to polish anyway? it makes no sense and there is no advantage to it at all. Why would you wash after polishing and compounding? unless you didnt tape up properly or dont have a blower to blow dust away (hairdryer). I use an IPA mix prior to sealant or wax application to ensure there are no oils left but that is it.

As for a clay in theory you cna use soap and water but its not good as it doenst always provide sufficient lubrication and also deteriorates the clay bar.

Hello,

In regards to claybar lube - if your looking for an off the shelf product, i use either mothers showtime or meguiars quick detailer.

Off the shelf polishing product with a cutting compound - I recommend Meguiars Ultimate compound, or if you need something tougher - go to Meguiars M105. Either way, follow this with Meguiars Ultimate Polish and then Meguiars Ultimate Wax. (Or if you want to save a few bucks, Meguiars Deep Crystal pure polish and Meguiars NXT Gen Tech Wax 2.0 will also do the trick).

I'd also recommend the Menzerna cutting products, they seem to have a longer working time and dont dust as hard as some of the Meguiars products.

The pads will differ depending on what you are trying to achieve. I use Lake Country pads - used to use meguiars soft buff 2.0 ones but i find the LC pads to be much better quality. If I were you, i'd get a LC white wool, LC purple foam/wool, LC yellow, LC orange, LC black, LC white and LC blue. That would be a good start and you'll definately end up using them eventually.

Regardless, apply with the pads and remove with microfibre towels.

Im no pro, just sharing what works for me - hopefully it helps.

Cheers.

get poorboys SSR2 SSR1 and Professional Polish from waxit.com.au along with an LC orange LC white and LC black all of those times 2. that is all you will need

SO SO Wrong.

you dont have to wash after clay you can use water and wipe with a micrfibre or just rinse. Why would you wash after compounding when you are going to polish anyway? it makes no sense and there is no advantage to it at all. Why would you wash after polishing and compounding? unless you didnt tape up properly or dont have a blower to blow dust away (hairdryer). I use an IPA mix prior to sealant or wax application to ensure there are no oils left but that is it.

As for a clay in theory you cna use soap and water but its not good as it doenst always provide sufficient lubrication and also deteriorates the clay bar.

I still think this depends. Unfortunately I dont get paid to go through the massive detailing process all in one hit ;)

I do the process bit by bit over a few day period in which I still need use of my car. Unless you are going to do it one step straight after the other, I'd still suggest a wash between them.

I still think this depends. Unfortunately I dont get paid to go through the massive detailing process all in one hit ;)

I do the process bit by bit over a few day period in which I still need use of my car. Unless you are going to do it one step straight after the other, I'd still suggest a wash between them.

ok I see where your coming from.

  • 2 weeks later...

I've only ever tried using clay with water twice, neither worked out well.

The first time i tried the wash solution was still too concentrated and this degraded the clay, it literally broke up in my hands. - this happened with clay magic blue, which I used at my workplace.

The second time it left some serious marring on the paint, which has never happened before when using lube. Not 100% sure but I'm assuming there wasnt enough lubricity in the water/wash solution mixture.

This happened with Final Inspection's extra fine grade clay - which is the most gentle version they make, and has never caused any form of marring on my cars before.

So I suggest going with Lube, its cheap anyway!

I've only ever tried using clay with water twice, neither worked out well.

The first time i tried the wash solution was still too concentrated and this degraded the clay, it literally broke up in my hands. - this happened with clay magic blue, which I used at my workplace.

The second time it left some serious marring on the paint, which has never happened before when using lube. Not 100% sure but I'm assuming there wasnt enough lubricity in the water/wash solution mixture.

This happened with Final Inspection's extra fine grade clay - which is the most gentle version they make, and has never caused any form of marring on my cars before.

So I suggest going with Lube, its cheap anyway!

Thanks for the advice mate, will stick with the off the shelf lube.

^ you could try final inspection lube, its pretty cheap and the latest version works very well, you should be able to pick it up yourself since you're in sydney im quite sure they have a store there?

I think its cheaper than most stuff that can be used off the shelf as lube (usually quick detailers)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...