Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The block might be the same but the rods pistons and heads are definitely different. It has proved difficult for people to get the correct forged pistons for the neo - they are usually not available off the shelf and have to be made hence a long lead time.You may find that your cr is in excess of 10:1 and the shape of the piston crown is not suitable. Did you compare the pistons you put in with the ones you pulled out?

Did you buy neo pistons? From what I've seen while looking for pistons for my neo is the pistons are nowhere near the same shape to an rb25 non neo.

You can get cp neo pistons on eBay for $800ish delivered.

it is for non neo, but my mechanic bought the r34 block which he believed it to be the same.

What i bought was for non neo cp pistion with 9.0:1CP and Manley Rod. the rod lenght of rb25 and 26 are the same? because on the box it says rb26.

  On 26/03/2012 at 5:54 AM, zoom said:

it is for non neo, but my mechanic bought the r34 block which he believed it to be the same.

What i bought was for non neo cp pistion with 9.0:1CP and Manley Rod. the rod lenght of rb25 and 26 are the same? because on the box it says rb26.

From what I read, NEOs run RB26 rods but not pistons.

OK, just to clear it, i've got r33 gtst, my rod (number 1 let go about 2 months ago and i have bought all the part for rebuild. My mechanic has r34 gtt block, i use his bottom block with my non neo head. I was told that the block is both the same. Is the crank for the neo and non neo (rb25det not neo) the same?

when putting one of the piston and rod in the top edge of the piston is about 1mm above the surface of the block (head gasket is not installed yet). is sthis normal? should the top edge of the piston sitting flush with the block surface?

look like i will need to buy the r33 block. can anyone else comfirm?

thanks all

  On 26/03/2012 at 7:07 PM, lilcrash said:

As a guide my neo pistons in my neo block sat about 40thou under the deck height.

I think you need to go buy an r33 block.

  On 27/03/2012 at 9:51 AM, zoom said:

look like i will need to buy the r33 block. can anyone else comfirm?

thanks all

I'm not too sure about that. Find an experienced RB engine builder and ask. You may be able to get away with thicker gaskets but find someone who has done it.

The rb25 blocks should all be the same. The rb26 block was a bit higher from memory.

The main diff between the r33 and 34 engines is the head, pistons and rods.

Rods were same length all round from 26 to 25 but the pistons were totally different. The rb25 and 26 had same pistons with a taller deck while the rb25 neo had special valve cutouts and was shorter. If you used r33 pistons in a r34 the valves will hit the pistons.

  On 27/03/2012 at 9:35 PM, Bronx said:

The rb25 blocks should all be the same. The rb26 block was a bit higher from memory.

The main diff between the r33 and 34 engines is the head, pistons and rods.

Rods were same length all round from 26 to 25 but the pistons were totally different. The rb25 and 26 had same pistons with a taller deck while the rb25 neo had special valve cutouts and was shorter. If you used r33 pistons in a r34 the valves will hit the pistons.

Yep but he's apparently using the R33 head.

  On 28/03/2012 at 4:21 AM, KiwiRS4T said:

Yep but he's apparently using the R33 head.

Wrong pistons??

Measure pin heights etc and compare to catoglue data. ignore what the box says.

R33 and R34 blocks are the same height/stroke

Rods are the same length in R33 rb25 and R34 rb25 and rb26

The difference is the CC of the heads, R33 are about 62 and Neo is 51-52CC's

Hence the difference in piston crowns (and maybe pin height)

without the head fitted the piston is sitting about 1mm above deck. If r34 block and crank are the same as r33 then the piston is wrong. But looking at the CP spec and having consult with CP people they confirm that they have the same compression height. this is what they said

"CP Pistons said that the valve reliefs are the same for both the 8.5:1CR and 9.0:1CR pistons. They say they design the pistons to accept high lift and +1.0mm oversized valves. Neo piston is different to non neo, the main different being compression height."

I have also post this in the Force Induction Performance section. seem like i still have no answer, I'm totally confused. :unsure:

Yeah but have you got the right pistons? As Darrin says never mind what it says on the box actually measure the distance from the pin to the crown (compression height) . Ask CP what it should be for the R33 piston and what it should be for the Neo piston and establish for sure that you have the right pistons.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...