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Hi this is my first post on this forum and im not very good with skyline parts/bits but I am wondering is the difference between the ATTESA out of a GTR R32 and the v-spec R32?

Could I spend less and get a normal GTR and change over the diff, ATTESA controller (or is it inbuilt with the ecu?). What are the differences between the BNR32 system and a BNR33. Iv herd of engine swaps but how dose the ATTESA go with this. whats the difference between the controller in the BNR33?

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What is the difference between the ATTESA-ETS in the R32 GT-R and R32 GT-R Vspec and Vspec II models? As far as I know, there's not much of a difference. I remember reading somewhere that it was re-programmed to the Nismo and N1 packages but that's about it.

What is the difference between the AWD in the R32 GT-R and R33 GT-R? From what I can recall, the first R33 GT-Rs that came off Nissan's production line in 1995 used the same ATTESA-ETS system that the R32 GT-Rs used. Alongside the standard specification R33 GT-R, the Vspec model used the ATTESA-ETS Pro with an Active-LSD. It was much more sophisticated than the normal ATTESA-ETS. If you do a Google search, you will definitely be able to find out the differences between both systems.

Someone correct me If I am wrong.

As for your other questions, someone else may be able to answer them as I am not sure.

EDIT: The search function on this forum is also a very powerful tool. There's a lot of information on the forums that you might not have seen. :thumbsup:

Edited by JDM34

In std GTR the ATTESSA PRO was the "Active LSD option" Though this came standard in the 33 GTR VSPEC. This ECU reads 100 times per Second, The ATTESSA ETS which is the older version in R32 GTRs and some 33's Read at 10 times per second.

I dont think a swtich would be to easy as the other main upgrade of the PRO is controlling the four-wheel independent ABS braking system. This is not part of the AWD system, but the ECU makes use of the same sensors to determine wheel slip and traction.

were as the ETS version controls the front to rear torque-split and to also at the PRO is also capable of left-and-right torque split to the rear wheels. This is done via an active rear limited-slip differential.

R32 GTR to R32 GTR Vspec - same stuff really. No real "upgrade" to be had there.

As for A-LSD of R33 VSpec, it's rubbish - I've killed mine and the only real solution is to go back to a non-spec rear end (R33 GTR is different), and then go with that diff which is mechanical as it's not worth rebuilding the A-LSD.

Something to think about if your intend is on performance

thanks for the reply's Google is not much help found a few articles here and there but with no story's of it being done / iv been capped for this month to make things harder (to much porn) =P.

but iv found a bit of useful info here and there so i know a bit more now

ahh so the pro is a bit different seems a lot better in principal but is it that good compered to the ETS around a track? how much improvement in handling is there between the 2? as i was reading else where it seems less work just dropping a v-spec R33 running gear (looking at one in the wreckers atm) into a BNR32/33 shell

every one has different stats about the speed of the controller @_@ why is there so much variables in every ones information that dont match?

also is the attessa unit in the ecu or is it external?

how many hp are you pushing though your Active LSD?!! R31Nismoid? but dose it fell different to drive as im after a car that i can take out the track in dry or wet conditions from time to time, im happy with the amount of power they have from stock =P

Mine has given up the ghost at 350-360rwkw. Previous owner was running 330rwkw for a few years and it was ok.

I know 2 others with them that have been "OK" at 320-330rwkw for a few years. One of those people is following the same road as his is also tired now.

I've only noticed mine playing up when cornering as the A-LSD takes input from steering etc, basically it just gets tired and starts tripping out. To compensate ATTESA keeps sending power to the front when it shouldn't.

As a result it nearly threw me off a motorkhana course twice in Feb as I was expecting the rear to lock/slide under power but instead it sent the power front wheels mid corner. Car had never done that before and I've driven that course many times so it wasn't me doing anything different.

Confirmed later on with video that it was lighting up a single pegging at the rear that was causing it.

It locks fine still in a straight line at this stage. Although I've suspected in some instances that it's semi-single'd, but I cannot be 100% certain.

So... Just rip it all out. Motors and all. Should easily save 15kg to boot.

Hi this is my first post on this forum and im not very good with skyline parts/bits but I am wondering is the difference between the ATTESA out of a GTR R32 and the v-spec R32?

Could I spend less and get a normal GTR and change over the diff, ATTESA controller (or is it inbuilt with the ecu?). What are the differences between the BNR32 system and a BNR33. Iv herd of engine swaps but how dose the ATTESA go with this. whats the difference between the controller in the BNR33?

Maybe you should tell us what problem you're having (that you're hoping to fix by upgrading the ATTESSA) and we can offer some suggestions on the best way to fix that problem.

Most people find that the system doesn't send enough power to the front when cornering, and that's easily fixed by attenuating the lateral g sensor signal with an external controller. There are a number on the market. I got the cheapo ebay one, and it works wonders.

What MrStabby said!! I have not gone the controller route yet, but will do so. I am not too sure about the difference between standard GTRs and the v-spec, if someone is happy for me to take their 32 for a run I will tell you ;) I know mine still gets very little front drive. I have to say though my mother has a 33 v-spec, and the ALSD is noticeably better. Far less taily, but even just changing to -9 turbos made the difference for me by making power more progressive. Also have a read of this:

http://autospeed.com.au/cms/A_107753/article.html

Mine has given up the ghost at 350-360rwkw. Previous owner was running 330rwkw for a few years and it was ok.

I know 2 others with them that have been "OK" at 320-330rwkw for a few years. One of those people is following the same road as his is also tired now.

I've only noticed mine playing up when cornering as the A-LSD takes input from steering etc, basically it just gets tired and starts tripping out. To compensate ATTESA keeps sending power to the front when it shouldn't.

As a result it nearly threw me off a motorkhana course twice in Feb as I was expecting the rear to lock/slide under power but instead it sent the power front wheels mid corner. Car had never done that before and I've driven that course many times so it wasn't me doing anything different.

Confirmed later on with video that it was lighting up a single pegging at the rear that was causing it.

It locks fine still in a straight line at this stage. Although I've suspected in some instances that it's semi-single'd, but I cannot be 100% certain.

So... Just rip it all out. Motors and all. Should easily save 15kg to boot.

Surely something coulod of been done then just ripping out the AWD system?

Ive had never ending problems with mine, but nothing like you mentioned, Mines as simple at the AWD light turning on, Need to look into TPS voltage.

Will give it a real good going over when then conversion happens.

Who said i was ripping out the AWD system?

I'm simply putting a Mechanical rear into mine and getting rid of the A-LSD.

Car retains full 4WD. You just need a non-vspec rear housing to do it as the A-LSD housing you cannot get a Nismo diff for etc.

What MrStabby said!! I have not gone the controller route yet, but will do so. I am not too sure about the difference between standard GTRs and the v-spec, if someone is happy for me to take their 32 for a run I will tell you ;) I know mine still gets very little front drive. I have to say though my mother has a 33 v-spec, and the ALSD is noticeably better. Far less taily, but even just changing to -9 turbos made the difference for me by making power more progressive. Also have a read of this:

http://autospeed.com.au/cms/A_107753/article.html

Could also be a worn transfer case/diffs as well. They are near on 25 years old dont forget.

You can rebuild the transfer case similar to a diff, they lock up much nicer etc.

The A-LSD isn't what is "better" in the R33 - it's the overall ATTESA system - increased polling rate & sensors, and likely a less worn tranfer case/diff as opposed to an active rear diff.

I get epic drive outta the corners with my rebuild transfer case & nismo front diff.

  • 1 month later...

Sorry its been a while i never got a notification that ppl did reply. I get the ATTESA-PRO is working with all 4 wheels rather than power to front or back and is reading a bit faster (a lot). I am still wondering how much effort would go into putting the ATTESA-PRO out of the 33vspec or gtr34 setup in a 32 as i have not learnt my lesson yet with how much it costs to fix a car up and what is involved work wise (my s13 has cost me more in parts and paint than i bought it for). im guessing the diff can be swapped but how about oil lines loom ect how much work is involved to make it all fit up or am I really better of trying to find a cheap v-spec33 (not a fan of the body shape of the 33).

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