Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Scrape each time going into my driveway. Also parked in those underground parking lots in the city. Every car in front of me went down fine, except when I did front wheel went over the bump without scraping but heard a loud ass grinding when the bump was underneath in the center....heartbroken.

So how often do you guys scrape? And should I be concerned?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396365-how-often-do-you-guys-scrape/
Share on other sites

I rarely scrape in a stock sedan.. with the exception the front bar on gutters or those 'bump stops' when parking.. the front of the car is quite low, but since the front wheels are so far forward it is rarely an issue on driveways or speed bumps.

Currently looking for a set of 350Z springs and shocks.. that might make scraping more of an issue...

I avoid going to southland in my car for a couple reasons.

1) Their Speed humps are ridiculously high.

2) There are a crap load of potholes in the parking lot

I haven't even dropped the height ffs =(

I also avoid North Melbourne Market parking lot for that exact same reason..

Always go on an angle for any dip / speed hump.. they're too deceiving

Multi-level car parks are completely off limits at the current height, as are speed humps and any dirt, but I keep the adjustment wrenches handy...

My old driveway scraped on the mesh/flex of the OEM Y pipe (right through), before I got a stainless system. I put a bash plate in front of my new cats, which are the lowest part but far, but it just got hit more as it's lower still and they still got scraped up in reverse.

I had a couple of sets of King Springs (now sold on the forum) that worked well and gave enough clearance to get around.

Bags might be the way to go next...

Yeh i scrape on most parking bump things, i dont even try to get into multi floor car parks, unless i can go sideways down the ramp,

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/No-Fat-Chicks-Car-Scrape-Vinyl-Decal-Sticker-/190576642259?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5f40c8d3

may need to put this on some of our cars :P

My Kinteix hfcs come down from the engine at a more extreme angle (to give them clearance from the car body), so the rear of the Y-pipe sits much lower than oem and is literally 5cm off the ground. I scrape the join on EVERY speed hump I go over.

Then I put on a custom made 3" mid pipe that was way too loud, so put a resonator on it, then that hit everything as well - ended up tearing open the rear of the resonator when the car bottomed out on a bumpy road at 110km/h. So I had to put the oem one back on - it is actually almost triangular-shaped so the bottom of it doesn't hit the ground over bumps!

I used to sit 1 inch lower, but have raised the car up due to physically getting the car STUCK on things! One tim eI had to get 3 nearby guys to hold the rear of the car down so the wheels touched the ground so I could power off a footpath/driveway join! :stupid:

So now the gap between my tyres and guards is nearly 5cm and I STILL scrape on everything (I do have a lower aftermarket front bar admittedly).

Agree with everyone, scraping might be the price of greatness.

Can you see whats catching underneath? The flanges on the OEM pipes and the mesh flex are the most likely. I cut my flanges off and welded the mid-pipe directly on, now the cats scrape sometimes, but no 'scrape then bump'.

I used to sit 1 inch lower, but have raised the car up due to physically getting the car STUCK on things! One tim eI had to get 3 nearby guys to hold the rear of the car down so the wheels touched the ground so I could power off a footpath/driveway join! :stupid:

this is gold

I can just imagine asking random strangers at like a shopping centre "Uhh excuse me, do you mind helping lift the rear of my car for a bit so I can get over this speed hump?"

this is gold

I can just imagine asking random strangers at like a shopping centre "Uhh excuse me, do you mind helping lift the rear of my car for a bit so I can get over this speed hump?"

...am not going to help if stuck in mud. >_<

I avoid going to southland in my car for a couple reasons.

1) Their Speed humps are ridiculously high.

2) There are a crap load of potholes in the parking lot

Agreed, the southland speed bumps in the car park always get me.

Also the ramps up to the 2nd level on the MYER side seem unusually steep. i don't scrape, but i imagine im not far off either

I dont know how you guys with stock height scrape. Mine is lowered 1.2 inches at the front and one inch at the back and i very rarely scrape. Sometimes if i have a momentary lapse of concentration and hang the nose too far over a high kerb, on the way back out the plastic flap scrapes. It sounds a lot worse then it actually is though. I was thinking it would be cool to put a camera under there somehow so you can see exactly how close you get.

Edited by projectx

i'm lowered on 350z suspension and hardly scrape on anything with the exception of my front lip which gets a graze underneath everyday I reverse out of my driveway.

For those with stock suspension and scrape...post up your tire profiles e.g.: 225/45/18. one of the reasons ppl on stock suspension scrape is because they have the wrong profile tires on, effectively reducing overall diameter and also ride height...and they wonder why...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2001 BE5D Subaru Legacy B4 RSK (3rd gen) EJ208 (pink injector) Twin Turbo 280PS 5-speed manual Full time 4WD "RSK" grade which means all of the above LQC option which means stock rear spoiler  I got it primarily to export to someone outside Japan who was interested. These BE5 Legacy B4 RSKs are going through a bit of a resurgence right know in Japan as they are one of the few cars from the "turbo, manual, RWD/4WD, 280hp gentleman's agreement era" cars that don't require stupid money to purchase. Which for some people might be a good opportunity to get as a base for restoration. If I can't find anyone to purchase it I will certainly be doing that myself over the long term. Why? Because it's properly fast in stock form, handles well enough for a GT sedan, there's still enough aftermarket and (if you can wait a while) genuine part support to make it a restoration candidate (<-- that will only get worse over time so it's a case of do it now or choose get a BL5 4th Gen). Mechanically it's fine, has only 89,200kms on the odometer. The problem with this car is that the body and exterior trims are weathered from at least the last 10 years being parked outdoors. I'm the 3rd owner, the first owner was the one that had it for 14 years and barely drove it, had a low-speed front impact (which didn't damage anything behind the radiator support) and got it fixed and sold it. The 2nd owner put most of the kms on it and parked it outside for the last 10 years, hence the door rubbers have seen better days but if you overlook those cosmetic details, it presents pretty nicely. There is some minor rust on the LH rear wheel arch which I'll have looked at too at some stage.  Also as you'd expect from a car this age, the clear top coat is gone, leaving a satin finish on the roof.  Mechanically it's fine (as you would expect from a car with less than 100K kms) but the steering does feel slightly vague around the centre position at higher speeds. So first on the list is to get the steering rack bushes looked at. There's also the Lock button on the remote which doesn't work, but the Open button does.... it means that the anti-theft system thinks it's always open? It seems like if you open the car and don't start the engine within 3 mins or so the anti-theft kicks in again without any beeps or signals. So if you got to start it after that, it won't. You have to push the open button again. That's how I understand it anyway. Just a small irritation but not a big problem to sort out. There's only one mod, the Wangan SPL muffler. Just a tad louder than stock. It's a really good mod for those who don't want to wake the neighbours but still want to hear a more prominent unequal length header EJ20 sound. Anyway I hope to get all those things done eventually, that is unless someone wanted to import it to their country from Japan (where I live). I'm open for negotiations as I really would like a Skyline... but this will definitely suffice in the meantime 🙂 *Disclaimer: This is how I picked it up from the dealer, minus the stuff on the back seat. I haven't cleaned the engine bay or done a thorough exterior clean, aside from spray painting the wipers. 
    • Wow, even with the Audi logo centre caps. I love OEM wheel mismatches. 
    • Welcome!  Can't go wrong with a Stag.
    • Looks good. Nice height.
    • Hey all, a little help from the Stagea hive mind plz.. I'm days away from buying either a 2002 Stagea 250tRS AR-X Four, premium leather, power seats and all the old switches etc that go with it, or a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO, pov pack, cloth seats etc, with coil overs, sports zorst, comes with original zorst and suspension and parts. (I think I've got the models right?) Both are VQ25DET, have 160000kms, both straight no rust both with $2000+ in recent servicing receipts, both ride on aftermarket 18" rims. The Aero has a replaced turbo as well. I like the cool factor of the Aero car but the AR-X has never been modified. Neither have been driven hardly at all in the last 5 years. Any thoughts on which one or does it come down to personal preference? davemoto 
×
×
  • Create New...