Jump to content
SAU Community

Should I Install A New Clutch By Myself?

75coupe
 Share

Recommended Posts

75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

Posted
Posted

Ive got another gearbox waiting to be installed, I bought it from a workshop up the coast, they said it was recently completely rebuilt with all new syncros etc... and yep it has new sealant so it has been rebuilt but Im taking his word for it that it is basically brand new... soon find out I guess..

I'll be getting a new exedy clutch kit, NSK-7056HHHDB

Ive done everything else on this car myself, but knowing (from moving the rb25 gearbox around) how heavy the geabox is and also the fact I dont have a hoist (I wish) in my garage should I be installing the new gearbox and clutch by myself or pay for a professional to do it...

I get a bit nervous taking my car to a workshop for anything (its rare I get others to do anything on my cars), Ive had bad experiences and Im always worried they just take it for a hoon...

Also I hate to pay to have it changed and then findout the gearbox aint what it was sold as and needs to come back out, I doubt this to be the case but you just never know... the sealant looks new and all...

Is it worth taking the risk and getting a workshop to install the new gearbox?

opinions wanted...

and should I re-use the shockproof lightweight oil I have in my current box or just get new oil too?... I dont usually re-use fluids.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted (edited)

I don't enjoy manhandling any gearbox, but RB25 boxes are particularly heavy, which makes it 10x worse. If you have a solid place to get the car up high on stands, good enough stands that you know it (the car) won't fall off as you jiggle the box around trying to get the clutch to line up, enough (trustworthy) friends to provide you with the muscle and smarts to help you get it in place and the gearbox cross member bolted in and so on, then go right ahead. Especially if you have done a gearbox on another RWD car that way before and know what you're in for.

Me....I have a brother-in-law with workshop, gearbox support and hoist. No brainer. But even without that, I'd still prefer to have the job done on a workshop's hoist than try to do it at home. For a start, when shit breaks or doesn't work right, it is easier to make it good at a workshop where spare bolts/gearbox mounts/clutch alignment tools etc are more available.

Oh, and god no. Do not re-use the oil. It isn't worth the $180 it was when you put it in. It is now worth $0.

Edited by GTSBoy
75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ahhh yeah I have no extra persons to call on for this so it be just myself doing this, probably with the girlfriend watching while she enjoys a beer...

Ive been quoted $500 for labour and flywheel machining by a reputable clutch place...

almost the same cost as the clutch and other parts... but atleast it would be done right I guess and the only sweating I'll do is while the skylines not in my possession.

wish I had a hoist and gearbox stand....

what about oils?? re-use and get new stuff, any recommendations, on supposedly newish box?

Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
Posted

What car is it? If its a 33 its a walk in the park on the ground. Put car on stands and have two trolly jacks on stand by. You can remove box and overall it with the use if two jacks. No lifting required. Use a small ratchet strap to secure to one if the jacks. I use a long pole between the dump pipe and chassis rail to lever it and angle the motor down a much as you can.

If its a 32 with 25 box its harder

75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hmmm, the plan was with one trolley jack under the box with rachet straps, car up on blocks back and front...

just goto find the balance point for the box to strap onto the trolley jack nicely, could be just asking for the box to fall on me though...

blk94r33 Mentor

blk94r33

Posted
Posted

If you usually do all your own work, are confident doing so, and know your own capabilities, I think you answer your own question by having to ask if you should do it.....

I put my own clutch in, but have been a mechanic for ~6 years, and it's only a RB20 box so alot easier.

I think even with the lighter box, I wouldn't have wanted to do it on the ground (had a hoist at work) as it can be tricky to get out and in on your own even with a gearbox jack.

Based on the above, get a workshop to fit it. There will be some kind of warranty on their work (ie clutch or gearbox s**** itself due to shoddy workmanship) and they shouldn't be thrashing the car on a brand new clutch anyway.

Doesn't the PFC have an adjustment for the rev limiter? Put it below the boost threshold until you get the car back.

Don't re-use the old oil, new bearings syncros etc won't like swimming in the old gearboxes shavings.

tricstar Mentor

tricstar

Posted
Posted

Have a crack at it. Download a how to from the DIY. I've done my 33 GTR (so heavier again) by myself on the floor of my shed a few times. And I'm no mechanic. Just get the car up as high as poss and I made a basic cradle for the box to sit on with a few pieces of wood and a couple of tech screws and bolted that to the jack.

The DIY's explain the rest thumbsup.gif

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

Have a crack at it. Download a how to from the DIY. I've done my 33 GTR (so heavier again) by myself on the floor of my shed a few times. And I'm no mechanic. Just get the car up as high as poss and I made a basic cradle for the box to sit on with a few pieces of wood and a couple of tech screws and bolted that to the jack.

The DIY's explain the rest thumbsup.gif

+1. Its only a GTST box, GTR is bigger and heavier and can be done single handed on the garage floor... Was getting lazy and thinking of just paying to have it done last time and someone here said you become more of a man every time you do a gearbox, so I grunted a few times and peer pressure did the rest. Also did a write up - check siggy.

ahhbee Community Regular

ahhbee

Posted
Posted

give it a shot i did my 34 by myself on the ground without ever having done one and didnt have any real trouble. i used the spare wheel in place of a second jack to help when aligning it. i wouldnt have any hesistation doing it again by myself either :)

biddy Enthusiast

biddy

Posted
Posted

definately worth doing yourself. I did my 32 gtr on the ground. used 1 trolley jack to remove the box and 2 to put back in. Hardest part of the job was removing and re-installing top starter motor bolt. Dont forget to replace the thrust bearing and rear main seal while the box is out.

75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

Posted
  • Author
Posted

supposedly fresh box so rear seal not needed right, I can see fresh blue sealant in the joins...

But is a new front seal necessary?

thnx for all the guidance guys, Im gonna do it, I cant come to terms with paying someone to do something I could do myself...

Although the girlfriend did offered to help, just not sure how I can utilise her yet, well with the new box install anyways...

34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

Ha ha didn't take long for some dodginess to appear in this thread!!! :laugh:

Do it yourself for sure, make sure you still get the flywheel machine done etc... Its not too bad to do! :thumbsup: As long as you line the clutch up properly when installed you wont have any drama getting it back in...

75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

Posted
  • Author
Posted

cheers, well Im pretty good at alining shaft to entry point, even after a few beers, so it should all be pretty easy...thumbsup.gif

just gotta remember to grease up the shaft to make re-entry painless...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Waders360
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Waders360 · Posted

      Sorry. Front brake calipers
    • MBS206
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...