Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys...

Just after a straite yes/no answer, been doing some research and cant find what i need...

I have a R34GTT and im looking at buying a s/hand Excedy twin plate clutch from a R33 GTR. It is a pull type clutch, comes with replacement flywheel only

Will this bolt straite in and work or will i need a push pull convertor? Are the clutches the same size?

Any info you guys can give me would be great

Thanx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/397535-r34-gtt-twin-plate-upgrade-help/
Share on other sites

AT the moment the car is running stock turbo, the plans of a bigger turbo are on the cards for the near future though, so im planning ahead...

The clutch is cheap!! Under $500 thats why im looking at it

The R34 pull type clutch uses a 250mm plate so straight off the bat they are gonna hold more torque than the 240mm plate on the previous models. Unless you are going to be making more than 550hp at the wheels then you can get a really good brand new single plate from NPC for about the $900 mark or less and if you aren't going to go over 400hp at the wheels, an organic plate behind a slightly modified cover will suit you fine and they are $100 cheaper.

Is it worth buying the second hand stuff to suit a different model and possibly having issues just to save a couple of hundred?

It certainly won't save you any money if there is problems and you have to pay twice to have it fitted or fixed

Twin plate clutch on a std gtt, do it like everyone else does upgrade power and handling and wait for shit to break.

Upgrading the clutch first with a possible stuffed used twin plate is stupid.

I hear what your saying and thanks for your words of wisdom. The twin plate excedy to buy for my car is over $2k so if i can buy a s/hand one from a a different model for a quarter the price then i would be crazy not to give it a go if it was to work the same..

Im trying to find out as much as i can re: fittment to try work out if i have to mod anything to make it work and then i can see if its going to be cost efficient.

power wise i doubt the car wil see 500hp@wheels. plans are for a 35R on E85 around 20-25pound with some drop in sticks

Twin plate clutch on a std gtt, do it like everyone else does upgrade power and handling and wait for shit to break.

Upgrading the clutch first with a possible stuffed used twin plate is stupid.

Im not going to buy the clutch if its stuffed am I!!!

I hear what your saying and thanks for your words of wisdom. The twin plate excedy to buy for my car is over $2k so if i can buy a s/hand one from a a different model for a quarter the price then i would be crazy not to give it a go if it was to work the same..

Im trying to find out as much as i can re: fittment to try work out if i have to mod anything to make it work and then i can see if its going to be cost efficient.

power wise i doubt the car wil see 500hp@wheels. plans are for a 35R on E85 around 20-25pound with some drop in sticks

GT35R on 25 pound of boost and E85 is going to see 500 hp.

On the subject of buying a stuffed clutch - do you know what you are looking at? How are you going to tell if the plates are worn out or if they have X life left?

Then even if you know that, are you going to be able to tell if there is spline damage, a warped hub or a fragmenting friction material?

Just because something is is $2000 new and you can get it for $500, doesn't mean it's going to work well and the fact that it's 1/4 of the price would usually tell me that it needs rebuilding.....which is going to set you back about $800-900 anyway.

Just because something is is $2000 new and you can get it for $500, doesn't mean it's going to work well and the fact that it's 1/4 of the price would usually tell me that it needs rebuilding.....which is going to set you back about $800-900 anyway.

Exactly.

power wise i doubt the car wil see 500hp@wheels. plans are for a 35R on E85 around 20-25pound with some drop in sticks

come back and ask the question again once youve done all of this ^^^^

cause you make it sound so easy... if your skimping on a new clutch but have these plans to a 35r you either dont know what your talking about or it will never happen anyways...

leave the 'twin plate' clutch till last, get a clutch that will handle stock power for now if your current once is dead...

you do realise for under 500hp you dont actually need a twin plate necessarily...

do some more research

Damm this has turned into a HATE fest!!

Excedy web site shows same part number for both applications, so that tells me it will work. Advise given re: it might need a rebuild... isn't that the risk we all take on buying second hand parts ???

I am also aware that a single will probly do the job, well it will do the job but i would rather just go hard on the clutch while im there, better to go over kill now then have to replace it again in 12 months when the car is making power as FYA would do!!

If i have to rebuild the clutch it will be as good as a brand new unit and still cheaper then buying brand new unit in the first place

Not a hate fest at all...

just dont understand, if your aiming to do things right the first time why but a used gtr clutch, why not get a decent new clutch to suit your car...?

after the conversion to make it fit and then the possible rebuild, you would of been better buying the right clutch first time round...

plus the fact the twin plate will suck with everything else std...

your simply doing it wrong...

FYA i think u need to read my post again....

The clutch is the right clutch for my car. There will be no conversion! Its the same part number so that means its the right part for the job.

The car has everything else done, just still running stock turbo. Will the setup i have now its making 270@wheels so I think the twin plate will be fine. It has a sprung centre so drivabilty for my weeker should be perfect.

Thanks all for your input

Question: Can I bolt an R33 GTR clutch to my R34 GTT RB25DET Neo and will it work?

Answer: Yes

Secondary answer: They are not the same. Even though Exedy may now sell them under the same part number, they have different release properties due to cylinder differences and the fact the GTR has a clutch booster, so you may get a shit pedal feel. Most people adjust it out but there is a tradeoff..

I will make a 50c bet that says the $500 pull type twin plate makes a better boat anchor than it does a clutch that will serve you well. Rebuild it - IF it's possible to and the damage is not too severe AND you have just outlayed $1300-$1400 when you could have just bought a proper single to do the job that will feel nicer, drive better and will be BRAND NEW for half the price.

I understand where you are coming from though, but out of every customer that walks in my door and presents me with a second hand part to fit, they have ended up needing to pay more than what it would have cost to do it properly the first time.

If you still want to get the secondhand twin plate, let me know coz I have a few old rear main seals and an alright looking spigot bush laying around somewhere.

  • 3 weeks later...

Hey R33L,

I can relate very muchly to overenginnering everything you put into the car.

The confidence whilst driving that the machine is strong and nothing you are going to do will hurt it; makes me very happy.

I achieved this just by putting in an exedy heavy duty and the flywheel that went with it... It feels stronger than anything else in the car.

Then again i'm not making 270 :(

But if this part has come out of a 33gtr it could be more than a decade old... And You've

got more issues to worry about upcoming than just the clutch too.

By the time you've done 130,000 like My car has you'll have your synchros in the gearbox starting to wear out too. Mines having a recondition now.

Pain in the arse.

I have HKS GD max Twin Plate clutch and lightweight Flywheel for sale its only done max 500klm max to suit r34 GTT might suit others as well 32,33,34 GTRs,

took it out as I personally didn’t like it, it has that stock feeling very light but bitiey as hell .went back to single plate .

I have paid $2700 + shipping for this HKS twin plate clutch brand new

Will sell it for

$1300 firm

just to cover costs of my single plate ,

please let me know If your Interested PM me and I can send u some photos and measurements of how thick the discs are.

Fark no, please dont use a secondhand clutch plate, the bastard could have been tortured to the shithouse and caused damage that wouldnt be obvious till you have had it fitted to your car

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...