Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I replaced my ceramic button clutch with a streetable heavy duty organic.

In the process I replaced the spiggot but did not replace the input shaft bearing

(I think that's right, when I depress the clutch stationary it gets noisy as hell, clutch in quiet)

My question is what will happen if this bearing goes unchanged for a while?

I won't be able to pull the gear box out gain any time soon. What will the actual effects be? Or will it just be noisy? It's loud but I feel no actual effects.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/397688-will-the-bearing-do-damage/
Share on other sites

If it is the input shaft bearing, if you keep driving it the bearing will eventually collapse and quite possibly wreck a gear or 2 costing you more in the long run. Did you replace the clutch throwout bearing that sits on the fork?

Sounds like you mean the throw out bearing, which is the one that the clutch pedal pushes onto the pressure plate. Here's mine;

med_gallery_15274_3064_69219.jpg

The clutch kits i've seen all come with one. Just change it. Eventually it will fall to pieces and you wont be able to release the clutch.

Hang on OP, you said the noise is there when you depress the clutch and it disappears when the clutch is in...these are one and the same, so which is it?

Foot on the pedal pushing it in...is the sound there?

Foot off the pedal...is the sound there?

Which one comes with an exceedy clutch kit? Spigot?

Nope, the throw out will always come in a clutch kit. Throw out should always be replaced when you do the clutch, spigot is often ok. If the throw out is dead it will squeal when you push the clutch pedal. Spigot is the bronze copper ring in the center at end of the crank;

med_gallery_15274_3064_132065.jpg

Hang on OP, you said the noise is there when you depress the clutch and it disappears when the clutch is in...these are one and the same, so which is it?

no. "depress" means you are no longer pressing in, and when the clutch is in, as in you "press" the clutch in, it goes away, make sense?

http://www.thefreedictionary.com/depress

Was the noise there before you installed the new clutch? What kind of noise is it, a whine/grind/squeal/rattle? Which bearing did you replace, spigot or throw out (see MrStabby's pics).

  • 2 weeks later...

no. "depress" means you are no longer pressing in, and when the clutch is in, as in you "press" the clutch in, it goes away, make sense?

To depress the clutch pedal means to push it down. You can't just make up your own definitions - you'll just confuse people.

So to press my clutch means to let it out ?

Does anyone have an answer to which beating that is instead of more insights to a specific word? I even put a video showing the clutch position can we move on?

I wouldn't assume oil as the gearbox is not moving but more a bearing inline with the clutch,

Is that most likely the thrust bearing?

So to press my clutch means to let it out ?

Does anyone have an answer to which beating that is instead of more insights to a specific word? I even put a video showing the clutch position can we move on?

I wouldn't assume oil as the gearbox is not moving but more a bearing inline with the clutch,

Is that most likely the thrust bearing?

I'll start off with my usual disclaimer, " I'm no Mechanic but "

It is my understanding that when you are sitting still with the car running in neutral with your foot off the clutch ( I'll avoid the press-depress issue :rolleyes: ) the input shaft is obviously turning at the same speed as the flywheel and so is other stuff in the box, so I'd take on board what turboedsloth says I'm pretty sure he rebuilds gearboxes :thumbsup:

does sound a bit raspy to be throw-out bearing,,,, could wrong,, either way its box out

Yeah box will come out, I guess it's good practice to replace both the throw out - input - thrust bearig just do it all for the sake of doing it while were in their. Are any of them specifically difficult

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...